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Lohri, Makar Sankranti and Pongal: Celebrating food at the harvest festivals of India

Jan 11, 2025 07:48 PM IST

Lohri, Makar Sankranti, and Pongal mark India's vibrant harvest celebrations, filled with distinctive rituals and culinary traditions.

As the cold winter days give way to the promise of spring, India lights up with the vibrant celebrations of its harvest festivals—Lohri in Punjab, Makar Sankranti in North India, and Pongal in Tamil Nadu. These festivals mark the agrarian community’s gratitude for an abundant harvest and are celebrated with distinctive rituals, music, and, most importantly, food.

Celebrating food at the harvest festivals of India

Lohri’s bonfire rituals in Punjab feature families gathering around the fire and tossing sesame seeds, popcorn, and peanuts into it. Followed by Makar Sankranti, celebrated across North India and Gujarat sees the preparation of til-gud sweets jaggery-based sweets while Tamil Nadu’s Pongal, which is a four-day harvest festival, centres on the preparation of sweet Pongal—a dish of rice, jaggery, and milk cooked together.

Food forms the heart of these festivals, with dishes that bring communities together while showcasing regional flavours. We spoke to chefs who have curated special menus to celebrate these festivals across India and learned the stories behind different dishes.

The warmth of Lohri

Amid the cold winter days, chefs are bringing the warmth of tradition to their festive menus by celebrating the culinary heritage of Punjab. Classic dishes like sarson ka saag, makki ki roti, and mirchi paratha take centre stage, deeply tied to the seasonal harvest of mustard and corn.

Chefs have also put together a menu for people celebrating this festival in southern India and beyond offering an opportunity to savour the vibrant flavours of the North, brought to life with the season’s best harvest. “From dishes like Bajra Makai Ki Pulao, Dal Pakwan Chaat, and Kacche Kele Masala, tender lamb simmered in a rich Spinach gravy to heartwarming traditional desserts like Til Ki Chikki and Coconut Jaggery Gujiya, each dish has been thoughtfully crafted to celebrate the spirit of the season and the richness of India’s culinary heritage,” shares Chef Shaikh Imran Arif, The Ritz-Carlton, Bangalore.

When it comes to desserts, Lohri also embraces creativity with its wacky yet delicious sweet treats. While the traditional desserts include gajak, gud ki rewari, and tik chikki, chefs have also given a twist. “Gulab Jamun Cheese Cake takes the iconic Indian dessert and reimagines it as a rich, indulgent cheesecake, merging the sweet and rich flavours of gulab jamun with the creamy texture of cheesecake,” says Chef Diwas Wadhera, Executive Chef, Eros Hotel, New Delhi.

Celebrating rice with Pongal

Pongal, one of the most significant festivals of Tamil Nadu, is a harvest celebration that marks the gratitude of farmers to the Sun God and nature for a bountiful harvest. Rice is harvested at this time of the year and rice dishes take a special place as it is the first harvest of the year. It is used in traditional dishes such as Ven Pongal (savoury rice and lentil dish) and Sakkarai Pongal (sweet rice dish made with jaggery).

“The idea behind creating a Pongal menu is to showcase the abundance of produce that this harvest season has to offer. A lot of recipes on our menu are heirloom recipes which have been collected from my friends and my family. One of the most favourite dishes on the menu is Paal Poli - which is a beautiful savoury puri with a fresh paal payasam and lots of dried fruit on top - an absolute star dish,” shares Chef Ruchira Hoon, Founder, Dakshin Canteen, Delhi.

Chef Manohar at Muttuswami Cafe, Mumbai has thoughtfully crafted a Pongal thali to showcase the authentic tastes of South India. It includes a combination of sweet and savoury dishes featuring Pongal (sweet pongal and ven pongal), bhaji (bhindi varuval, mixed vegetable kurma, and aloo coconut curry), sambar & rasam, ginger chutney, papad, pickle, steam rice, puran poli and banana bhaji. “Every ingredient used, from the jaggery in the Sweet Pongal to the coconut in the Aloo Coconut Curry, is chosen to honour the traditions of this harvest festival,” he adds.

The vibrancy of Makar Sankranti

This festival marks the sun’s transition into Capricorn (Makar) and is a symbol of renewal and hope. It is also known for kite flying, and Gujarati and Rajasthani households prepare til (sesame) and jaggery-based sweets such as til chikki, mamra ladoo and fada ni lapsi to signify the festival’s auspiciousness.

Chef Bhushan Hargane at Sheraton Grand, Pune has created a menu focusing on the seasonal ingredients that are harvested and celebrated during this time. “The Puran Poli and Til Poli are prepared during Makar Sankranti, as both jaggery and sesame are harvested and used to make sweet, comforting dishes that bring warmth in the cold,” he says adding, “These dishes are not just meals—they are a way of connecting with our heritage and paying homage to the farmers who bring these ingredients to our tables.”

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