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Diwali 2025 style guide: Glow with the flow
Your head-to-toe handbook to what’s trending, what to skip, and how to remix your wardrobe so you look lit at every Diwali event
Light those mithai candles. Look up Diwali outfit ideas. Google Best Sangeet Outfits For Men. Add styling inspo to your Pinterest boards. “Festive occasions have become a reason to go all-out,” says Bhawna Rao, founder of her namesake fashion label. “They’re social gatherings where you showcase your fashion sense.”
So, what to wear to make heads turn? Experts put together lookbooks for the season, and tell us what’s cool, what’s dated, and what’s defining the 2025 festive fashion mood.
Vibrant colours are in, pastels are out
“We’ve worn pastels for a decade. It has become boring and predictable,” says Rao. Vibrant colours and jewel tones are making a comeback. Even brides are going back to vivid reds and golds. Rao’s picks are sea blue, lush forest green and peppy yellows, if you like lighter hues. Burgundy, aubergine, maroon and emerald green if you prefer a richer, darker palette.
Men are choosing bold colours too, says Piyush Mohnani, founder of Asuka Couture. “The more colours in their outfit, the better. They want to stand out.”
Look closer. Motifs and embroidery are having a moment
We still heart a butterfly and floral motif, but now we’re interested in bees, lizards and insects too, says Rao. Keep them small. Focus on fine details and intricate, subtle designs. Silver zari embroidery, marodi embroidery, kantha work, dabka threadwork, and kardana are on trend for the moment.
“People really want the embroidery to be shown and to share the stories behind it, because there’s this perception that if it’s embroidered, it must be expensive,” says Mohnani. They also want more of a royal, “rajgharana” feel, he says – designs with peacocks, parrots, elephants, tigers.
Classic fabrics get new cuts
“We’ve moved on from classic lehengas, anarkalis, saris, and sherwanis, to silhouettes that are more Indo-Western,” says Rao. Kurtas come with asymmetrical hemlines, taffeta skirts double up as lehengas. There’s Indian embroidery on maxis, blazers, co-ord sets and gowns. “Layer capes over off-the-shoulder kurtas, pair leather or jacquard corsets and bustiers with flowy harem pants and a scarf,” suggests Jinita Sheth, founder of Label Jenn. “For men, printed pants with a matching vest, worn over a neutral-toned shirt, is a new and chic look to pull off.” Open bandhgala jackets, mid-thigh length kurtas and shorter achkans give off a more contemporary look.
Leave the heavy brocades or velvet back on the shelf. The mood suits lightweight fabrics such as gaji silk, chanderi, and jacquard. “People want festive wear that looks rich and detailed, but feels like something you can run a marathon in,” says couturier Mayyur Girotra.
Rao’s favourite styling tip is to add one dramatic element that echoes your personality. It could be an outfit with a standout motif, or something that draws the eye, such as an ostrich feather cape, a fringe skirt, or an embroidered satin corset. “Festive wear isn’t just about the glamour anymore, it’s also about investing in a garment that tells a story.”
One bling after another
Try not to look like a chandelier, please. Chunky crystals, loud glitter, and big beads are sooo one decade ago. Designer Sangeeta Kilachand, who has a new namesake couture label that focuses on Western-style embroidery, silhouettes and embellishments, says festive wear today reflects our Indian roots and global interest. It’s glitter, but in a different form: Leather corsets with metallic finishes, mirrorwork capes, and dupattas studded with crystal rhinestones. And don’t forget the mini metallic purse that is just for the vibes, not for the utility.
Mesh and woven textures have been trending across the world all year. Obviously, they’re on saris, kurtas and lehengas too. Sheth loves them. “You can see the shine of silver and gold through the fabric, which makes for an eye-catching look for the evening.”
Jewellery? It’s the main character
Little dainty whatnots? Not for the moment. Pick sculptural designs, and don’t go overboard with the accessories this Diwali. One big cuff or one pair of statement earrings or one jazzed up belt – not all three at once. Fashion and jewellery designer Maheka Mirpuri says brooches are big this season. “Pin them on a dupatta, use them as a sari pin, add it to your bag, or wear it over your pocket square.”
Men have been wearing more jewellery over the years. And a brooch, pendant, ring, or bracelet is easier to add to a festive look than to workwear or streetwear, says textile designer and couturier Ashdeen Lilaowala. Polki is gender-fluid and works with most looks. Just don’t go matchy-matchy. “And don’t just stick to gold or silver — go for out-of-the-box options such as crochet and beadwork jewellery, which can really elevate an outfit,” he recommends.
Don’t trip up
We prayed to the shoe gods and they listened. Bejewelled sneakers, embroidered juttis and zardozi-covered wedges mean the season is easy on the feet. They also “give you a good posture and the confidence to navigate a whole day of festivities,” says Sheth. “If you want to be extra, go with gold gladiator tie-up sandals – they work well with a cape skirt or harem pants.”
Men should “choose Peshawari sandals to go with kurta-bundi sets, and Kolhapuri chappals and mules that match the motifs on the outfit,” says Mohnani.
Shop your stash, and be stylish
Not everything stylish has to be new. “Style upcycled crop tops with a chiffon or transparent mesh fabric skirt, or an organza or net dupatta. Or cut up a lehenga or anarkali and turn it into a fabric belt,” says Sheth. Old Banarasi and paithani saris make for beautiful shawls or scarves, or even a vest, worn over a neutral kurta.
Bandhgalas from last season can be given a new lease of life “by changing the buttons and pocket squares”, says Mohnani. “A gown can be turned into a mermaid skirt lehenga — cut it in the middle and take a drape around it, and you have a new look,” says Rao.
Quick tips
Invest in: Dramatic, long dupattas, says Girotra. They’re the centrepiece of an outfit. “Wear it like a half-and-half sari, use it to amp up a plain ensemble.” For men, a bomber jacket with traditional embroidery work can be layered over a kurta or shirt for a low-effort, but instantly festive look. “It’s what I do when I’m uncertain about what to wear.”
The muse: “Janhvi Kapoor, if you want an edgy interpretation of festive wear. She’s also bringing back heirloom textiles and cuts from her mother Sridevi’s wardrobe, but making it her own,” says Rao. “For a more classic look, Deepika Padukone. See how she uses heavy chokers and jewellery as the focus of her outfit.” Varun Dhawan and Sidharth Malhotra have been pairing vibrant kurtas with stoles, left open just the right amount to show off their layered jewellery. Shah Rukh Khan did it first, at the Met Gala in May.
The classics: “A white chikankari kurta. It can be dressed up or down,” says Lilaowala. Or just choose a textile or weave from the region you’re from. “Not only does it give you direction, it’s a nice connection to your heritage.”
From HT Brunch, October 18, 2025
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