Pop quiz: What’s the best way to celebrate the 50 best restaurants from across the world’s biggest continent? Answer: By getting chefs from across countries to cook a 12-course meal, all to be served in one long, delicious evening!
That’s exactly what happened at Le Du restaurant in Silom, Bangkok, a few weeks ago, where seven chefs from award-winning restaurants in Singapore and Thailand came together to celebrate Asia’s best, and each other. These included Chef Pichaya Utarntharm of Potong, Chef Han Li Guang of Labyrinth in Singapore (famous for his chili crab), Johanne Siy of Lolla, Sri Lankan Rishi Naleendra of Cloudstreet Singapore, Dej Kewkacha of Kyo Bar, Sun Kim of Meta and the home chef, Thitid Tassanakajohn aka Chef Thon of Le Du and Nusara.
Surprise party
I was an accidental visitor who happened to be in the right place at the right time. I had arrived in Bangkok just the day before and gone through Thailand’s “Covid Test and Go” programme. (Government rules necessitated that all international arrivals are to be picked up from the airport in a van, driven to a drive-in Covid test facility, then quarantined in a hotel room for up to 12 hours or until their negative results arrive. Hotels are cheap, but this private pick-up and test cost me as much as half my stay!)
{{/usCountry}}I was an accidental visitor who happened to be in the right place at the right time. I had arrived in Bangkok just the day before and gone through Thailand’s “Covid Test and Go” programme. (Government rules necessitated that all international arrivals are to be picked up from the airport in a van, driven to a drive-in Covid test facility, then quarantined in a hotel room for up to 12 hours or until their negative results arrive. Hotels are cheap, but this private pick-up and test cost me as much as half my stay!)
{{/usCountry}}My results came in six hours flat, and as I restlessly entertained myself in my room by over ordering Grab food deliveries (brought to me by the hotel’s security staff, who kept two arms’ distance), I also used the free time to chat with friends.
One of those chance catch-up calls was with one of India’s most respected names in the food industry, noted food critic and author, Rashmi Uday Singh.
“What’re you doing in Bangkok, champ?” she asked in trademark Rashmi style. For those who don’t know, Rashmi is very active and hugely popular on Instagram, where her travels and pleasant demeanour never fail to create a buzz.
“Err… I just needed to get away,” I answered.
“Then why don’t you go for Asia’s 50 Best awards? They’re happening in Bangkok day after!”
Rashmi Uday Singh has been the India chairperson of the prestigious World’s 50 Best for several years now. Within minutes of our conversation, her counterpart in Thailand, a Mr Litti Kewkacha, had texted me. “The awards are on Tuesday afternoon, but why don’t you join us for dinner tomorrow night at Le Du? Seven chefs from across Singapore and Thailand are coming together to cook one meal!”
A few minutes later, Chef Thon of Le Du—Asia’s No. 4 restaurant this year—was on the phone, taking down my shellfish allergies and understanding what I can eat, and what I cannot.
A trip that was meant to be a quick escape down memory lane, was turning into an exciting one.
A camaraderie of chefs
At Le Du on the evening before the actual awards, I am seated at a table with Chef Han Li Guang and his lovely wife, Pamela, who set the tone for the conversation that evening. “My wife is trying to cook for me these days,” the chef says. “And I’m trying to eat what she cooks!”
The peals of laughter that evening are relentless, going quiet only when a new course of food arrives, with an award-winning chef humbly explaining his dish. The shrimp paste has been painstakingly replaced by Chef Thon, and my co-diner, Chef Guang is serving me “faux crab meat”.
At the table and on full display is a sense of humour, camaraderie, encouragement and humility, all of which are the pillars of a good hospitality professional.
Also at the table is India’s brightest young chef and HT Brunch columnist, Prateek Sadhu, who I have admired and encouraged, but met only for the second time today.
At other tables are Gauri Devidayal and Jay Yousuf of The Table, Mumbai, whose restaurant surprised them by breaking into the Top 100 of the Asia’s Best list this year, Indian Accent’s Rohit Khattar, Chef Himanshu Saini of Tresind Studio and Ministry of Crab’s Dharshan Munidasa.
India for the win
Cut to the actual awards function held in an Academy Awards-style ballroom at the Pullman King Power Hotel. The man behind the World’s 50 Best brand, William Drew, is in great spirits as he welcomes everyone back to an on-ground event to celebrate the best of the best. But the one group of people who seem the happiest in the room are the chefs and restaurateurs from India.
While three Indian restaurants feature in the Top 50 this year—seven others make it to the Top 100, and that’s reason enough to celebrate.
Interestingly, Chef Prateek Sadhu’s Masque pipped Indian Accent to the post, becoming the top Indian restaurant this year at No.21. Indian Accent followed at No. 22. But all was not lost for India’s favourite fine-dining place, for Indian Accent’s sister concern, Comorin, made its entry on the 51 to 100 list.
At No. 49 appeared Megu by the Leela Palace, filling the position Wasabi had left vacant a few years ago. Young chef Shumbham Thakur beamed as he collected the surprise award.
The seven other Indian restaurants included Karavali, Bangalore, at No. 59, Bukhara, New Delhi, at No. 66, Comorin, Gurugram, at No. 69, Dum Pukht, New Delhi, at No. 73, Avartana, Chennai, at No. 79, Americano, Mumbai, at No. 80 and The Table, Mumbai, at No. 85.
As chefs, restaurateurs and foodies partied their way into the night, one couldn’t help marvel at the camaraderie these “competitors” shared with each other. It just showed how hospitality is an industry full of pleasant people who want to make a living out of making people happy. Here’s to more of that!.
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From HT Brunch, May 21, 2022
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