Decoding the lead look
Hair: Short on the sides, long and pulled back puff on top.
Brows: Natural
Face: Smooth skin and three-day neat stubble.
Lips: Thick and buffed.
Others: Camel coloured summer leisure jacket and printed beige shirt.
Clothes do not make a man, but a good leisure suit surely does!
Smart, Relaxed & Casual
Where: Weekend brunches, the club, daywear, leisure travel, and early evening events.
Styling: Pale colours, soft fabrics, full suits or jackets with jeans or casual trousers.
Influences: Latin & Italian.
Making the Right Choice
1. The Fit: Remember, the more structured your silhouette – the smarter you will look. Your suit should move with ease and not crease, especially around the shoulders, sleeves and between the legs.
2. Custom or Ready-made: While custom tailored remains a favoured option, many brands and designers do well-made, off the counter suits that they will be happy to alter to your size if you ask them to. Before you finish paying for your suit, you must do a final trial for the fit and fall.
3. Value for Money: It makes sense to get value for what you are buying. I suggest you spend on a well-crafted and well-made suit for the way it looks and feels and not for the designer label or brand.
{{/usCountry}}3. Value for Money: It makes sense to get value for what you are buying. I suggest you spend on a well-crafted and well-made suit for the way it looks and feels and not for the designer label or brand.
{{/usCountry}}Custom Made: Our take
The Brief: I went in for a customised experience with Raymond Made to Measure for a summer suit for a ‘Cuban - Havana’ night I am attending at the end of the month. For a Latin theme, mine had to be a pale blue jacket, white pants and a multicoloured contrasting floral shirt!
USP: The suit was conceptualised and delivered without leaving home.
The Process: An efficient duo from the brand visited to take measurements and made me try a variety of samples to see which one would be the right cut, fall and shape for my body. I chose the fabric of the suit and shirt to go with it. About two weeks later, the first handcrafted sample was delivered. I just wanted the jacket length to be shorter, the arm holes a bit tighter and the trouser a bit more tapered.
The Result: A day later, the altered suit was sent. The fit was perfect, and it looked and felt lot better than expected. I moved with ease, and this is the true test of a well-made suit. The ‘made to measure’ experience is well worth the time and money, especially if your purchase isn’t a hurried necessity or being done on a shoestring budget.
The Fabrics
For summer, fabrics that are thick and coarse should be avoided. Instead choose those which are light and airy, so you can stay well ventilated. The fabric should give you a good fit, not crease or look limp.
Our tip: Always keep ‘off-season’ suits ready on standby so have them ready for that unexpected trip.
The Colour Palette
Majority of summer work suits come in light shades of grey, beige, and blue. Casual ones are generally in pastels, lighter shades or even white. Always pick and choose the colour to wear according to the time of day, where you are going to be, what the occasion is and as per the expected dress code.
The Golden Rule: Your suit should make you stand out, not blend into a crowd.
AM & PM: Wear lighter shades for the day and darker ones for the evening.
Colour tip: Choose according to your skin tone - warm colours work with dusky tones and cold colours with pale. Pastels work for everyone.
The Shape & Size
If you are tall or slim: Stay away from vertical stripes, including pinstripes since they tend to accentuate height. If you prefer to stick to prints, then horizontal stripes and subtle plaids are more flattering.
If you are short or built heavy: Avoid long jackets, cuffed trousers, and loud patterns. Pinstripes and darker day shades are your best bet since they will make you look both taller and leaner.
If you are big and bulky: Embrace dark colours; straight fit cuts and two or three button styles. Avoid all kinds of prints and textured fabrics-the plainer your suit, the better it will be.
Our Tip: A good suit should look timeless. A classic cut in a structured fit, with ample scope to alter is a must have.
The Details
Lapels: The emphasis of a suit is always the jacket lapel. Wear suits with peaked lapels since they carry the eye upwards. Longer lapels make you look broader since they form a V - neck, which emphasises the vertical lines of your body.
Inner lining: The lining of your jacket should be soft, comfortable and in a contrasting colour, texture, or self-design.
Pocket Squares
Your pocket square should give either a subtle accent or a bold statement to your jacket or suit.
We recommend: Dressing your jacket or suit with a contrasting or bright coloured pocket square. This is an important finishing touch for your look.
Jacket length
A short jacket (which ends over the hip) gives you a sharper and smarter look as well as balances the proportion between your upper and lower body.
We recommend: This jacket can be worn with jeans, knee length shorts and even your favourite chinos. The mandarin collar has a metallic button fastening and the print will give you an illusion of length.
Full Sleeve Tops
They are more versatile, and you can mix and match them with different jackets to create an assortment of looks as and when necessary. The collar may be round or V-neck and must look well maintained.
Shirts
Always full sleeve with a jacket. You may wear a contrasting or coordinated ‘tone on tone’ shirt. Only half an inch of the cuff should be visible under your jacket.
We recommend: These anytime shirts, will give you a nautical look as soon as you put them on. Roll up the sleeves only when wearing them without a jacket. Always tuck your shirt neatly into your lowers. Leave the top two buttons undone for a more laid-back feel.
Belts
Wear slim belts with simple buckles: the less attention your belt takes away from your suit - the better it will look.
Trousers
Trousers must fit well and enhance the shape of your lower body. You can choose between a straight cut, comfort fit or a tight-fitting pair. They should always end at the ankle and not over your shoes. They could match or contrast the jacket.
Jeans
You can’t go wrong with a pair of untreated, navy blue denim jeans with smart leisure jackets. Lighter jackets may need a lighter shade of blue for your jeans.
Socks
Your socks should always be of the same colour family of your suit. Quirky, printed and contrasting coloured socks work just as well too.
Shoes
Round tip shoes look a lot better with leisure suits than long pointed styles.
We recommend: For casual suits, it’s fine to either match or contrast your footwear. Sandals with suits? Maybe in photographs and on the ramp, but never in the real world!
5 Rules to Look Good in Your Leisure Suit
1. Never keep your hands in your trouser pocket, as it makes them shapeless, worn out and shabby.
2. Avoid carrying overstuffed wallets, heavy mobile phones, and other accessories in your pockets as they can ruin the shape and alter the fall of your suit.
3. Always undo the buttons of your jacket when you sit – this will keep it crease free and in better form.
4. Ties are best missing or optional for all casual looks.
5. Keep your suit well maintained. There’s nothing worse than wearing a suit that looks old or out of shape.
Leisure Etiquette – Wine Glasses
If you like your red or white and want to get it right: Tilt the bottle opening down over the wine glass and pour slowly into the centre or sides. Hold the stem between your thumb and first two fingers. Your middle finger should rest on the stem just above the base. Only three fingers should be in contact with the stem of the glass. Remember, when you hold your wine by the bowl of the glass, rather than the stem, you are warming your wine.
My tip: If you are the host, besides choosing the right wine which pairs well with the food you are serving, you should invest in a good set of glasses.
These glasses will impress anyone – they look good, feel light, have a fine sound and are tough at the same time. The author is an image, style, grooming and etiquette consultant and trainer.
From HT Brunch, May 21, 2022
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