Fashion can be anything but boring, and some runway shows push experimentation so far that they leave audiences divided. At Paris Fashion Week, Matières Fécales took that idea to an entirely different level with its Spring/Summer 2027 collection, staging its show at Paris’ Place de la République — a public square known for major gatherings and demonstrations. (Also read: Aishwarya Rai goes full ‘Maleficent’ at L’Oréal Paris Fashion Week runway in velvet gown and cape with bold red hair )
Matières Fécales’ theatrical Paris Fashion Week show
Co-designed by Steven Raj Bhaskaran and Hannah Rose, the collection drew heavily from Bhaskaran’s upbringing in low-income housing in Montreal and the diverse cultures and faiths he grew up around. The show was presented as a tribute to immigrants, outsiders and communities often left on the margins of the fashion industry.
“We spoke for a lot of people who don’t have a voice in this arena, in this city, in this environment,” Raj Bhaskaran told Hypebae backstage.
According to anonymous fashion critic Diet Sabya, Bhaskaran, one half of Matières Fécales, which literally translates to “fecal matter”, is half Sri Lankan and half Guyanese with Indian heritage. Diet Sabya described the collection as a homage to Bhaskaran’s heritage, his “Family” and “The One Percent” in his September 29 Instagram post.
Dramatic silhouettes, striking beauty looks
The collection was anything but understated. Wrapped tulle blazers were paired with voluminous skirts, while sari-inspired gowns and dramatically draped red, white and blue dresses brought a theatrical edge to the runway.
{{/usCountry}}The collection was anything but understated. Wrapped tulle blazers were paired with voluminous skirts, while sari-inspired gowns and dramatically draped red, white and blue dresses brought a theatrical edge to the runway.
{{/usCountry}}But it was the beauty looks that quickly grabbed attention. Models appeared with heavily painted white faces, bold red lips and dramatic streaks of sindoor extending up towards the nose. Other looks featured stark white makeup contrasted with deep black lips, creating an intentionally unsettling visual effect.
The styling, combined with the collection’s cultural references and theatrical presentation, quickly sparked discussion online.
Internet reacts to the showcase
The showcase quickly sparked reactions online, with users debating its cultural references, theatrical styling and bold beauty looks.
One user wrote, “I think it’s quite the opposite. I think they’re spotlighting the fetishisation of people of colour by the 1%. The make up here, the red dress on the Asian presenting model , the colours of revolution on black models, takes on motherhood. With incredible design ofc. absolute chills’.’
Another asked, “How is this MORE “McQueen” than McQueen ?!!” A third called it, “Provocative highly theatrical and deeply political performances!!!”
Another praised the collection, writing, “Such a nuanced collection. Their commitment to building a strong narrative is genuinely promising!! Most importantly Excellent construction. LOVE IT!!!”
One user connected the collection to Bhaskaran’s roots, writing, “Steven Raj Bhaskaran, one of the duo designer couple has a Tamil heritage and family roots to Sri Lanka. So, I can see the reference.” Another reaction read: “Gandi chudail couture is giving me life”.
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