Anti-ageing skincare guide: Right routine, when to start, products checklist and more

Starting a thorough skincare regimen in your 20s with products like hyaluronic acid, sunscreen can help maintain youthful skin and delay visible signs of aging.

Ageing is an inevitable part of life. Our skin is one of the first places where signs of ageing are noticeable, manifesting as wrinkles, sagging, discoloration, and a loss of elasticity. Understanding the factors that contribute to skin ageing can enable us to make mindful choices that slow down the visible signs of ageing and help us make informed decisions about choosing the right products to strengthen the skin barrier and contribute to a youthful appearance.

Reverse the clock! Essential skincare habits to keep your skin youthful (Photo by Pexels)

Skin ageing is influenced by a combination of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Intrinsic ageing, also known as chronological ageing, is genetically determined and occurs naturally over time, affecting all layers of the skin. Extrinsic ageing, influenced by external environmental factors such as UV exposure, pollution, and lifestyle habits, accelerates these changes. Together, these factors lead to cumulative structural and physiological changes in the skin, most apparent on sun-exposed areas like the face, neck, and hands.

Dr Rahul Pillai, Consultant Dermatologist and Medical Director, Kkris skin care Center & laser clinic, Chalakudy, Kerala offers an A-Z guide on skincare secrets, products to use, when to start the rituals, the right diet to follow and more:

The Science of Pre-Ageing: What Happens at the Cellular Level?

Reduced Epidermal Hyaluronic Acid: As we age, the epidermis loses its hyaluronic acid content, leading to decreased moisture retention and resulting in drier, rougher skin. Hyaluronic acid is crucial for keeping skin plump and hydrated, and its reduction is a key factor in the early signs of aging.

Reduced Collagen and Elastin: From about the age of 25, collagen—a critical protein that gives skin its strength and structure—starts to deplete at a rate of 1% per year. Elastin, another essential protein that allows skin to return to its original shape after stretching, also decreases. This reduction leads to a weakening of the skin's structure, causing fine lines, wrinkles, and a loss of elasticity.

Intrinsic Factors Include:

Genetics: Determines how your skin ages, including susceptibility to wrinkles and age spots.

Cellular Metabolism: Slows down with age, leading to a buildup of dead skin cells and a dull complexion.

Hormone Levels: Changes, particularly during menopause, can lead to dryness and loss of elasticity.

Your 20s are the right time to get serious about skin care.

Extrinsic Factors Include:

UV Exposure: The primary cause of premature skin aging, causing DNA damage, collagen breakdown, and increased pigmentation.

Air Pollution: The skin, as the outermost barrier, is most vulnerable to air pollutants. Pollution generates free radicals that damage skin cells and degrade collagen. Protect your skin by using antioxidant-rich skincare products and maintaining a thorough cleansing routine.

Lifestyle Choices: Smoking, poor diet, and lack of exercise can reduce the skin’s ability to repair itself and increase the production of harmful free radicals. Smoking, in particular, accelerates skin aging by reducing blood flow and oxygen delivery to the skin, leading to dullness and wrinkles.

Stress: Chronic stress can increase cortisol production, which breaks down collagen and leads to inflammation.

The Onset of Skin Ageing in Your 20s: When to Start Taking Action

From around the age of mid 20s the first signs of aging start to become apparent on the surface of the skin. Early signs of aging include appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, a loss of volume and a loss of elasticity over time Although these changes may seem subtle initially—like slight dullness, dryness, or the appearance of fine lines—they mark the beginning of pre-ageing. This is a critical time to adopt a thorough skincare regimen to delay the signs of ageing. The use of sunscreen, targeted skincare products like hyaluronic acid and retinol, and maintaining a healthy diet are essential in this phase.

How to Manage Skin Ageing

To combat these changes, it is important to adopt a holistic regimen that includes a thorough skincare routine, especially in your 20s when pre-aging signs begin to show. Here’s a simplified regimen to help protect and preserve youthful skin:

Daily Skin Care Regimen:

Hyaluronic Acid Moisturizer/Serum: Hyaluronic acid is crucial for retaining moisture, making skin plump and hydrated. Incorporating a moisturizer or serum with hyaluronic acid in your daily routine helps to maintain the skin’s hydration and elasticity.

Sunscreen: Consistent use of a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 is vital. Sun exposure is one of the main reasons for premature ageing, causing wrinkles, discoloration, and loss of elasticity. In your 20s, applying sunscreen every day is the one of the most effective way to prevent early skin ageing.

Look for sunscreens that offer:

Know what essential products to use.

Broad-Spectrum Protection: Protects against both UVA and UVB rays.

SPF: Choose a sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30.

Ingredients: For sensitive skin, opt for physical (mineral) sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. For acne-prone skin, choose non-comedogenic sunscreens. For dry skin, look for sunscreens with hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid or ceramides.

Retinol at Night: Incorporate a low-strength, encapsulated retinol into your nighttime routine. Retinol is known for increasing cell turnover, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and supporting collagen production. Starting with a low-strength retinol helps minimize irritation while providing anti-aging benefits.

Key Ingredients to Include in Your Skincare Regime

Hyaluronic Acid: Retains moisture, making skin plump and hydrated.

Vitamin C: Brightens skin and reduces the appearance of dark spots.

Peptides: Aid in collagen production, improving skin elasticity and firmness.

Ceramides: Strengthen the skin barrier, preventing moisture loss.

Niacinamide: Reduces inflammation and improves skin texture.

Importance of Topical Medical Agents

Antioxidants: Neutralize free radicals that cause oxidative stress and damage skin cells. Ingredients like vitamins C and E, polyphenols, and flavonoids reduce collagen degradation and support skin repair.

Cell Regulators: Retinoids (vitamin A derivatives), peptides, and growth factors stimulate collagen production, reduce collagen breakdown, and promote cell turnover.

Nutrition and Lifestyle

A balanced diet rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants supports skin health from within. Nutritional supplements can provide essential nutrients. Regular exercise improves blood circulation, ensuring your skin receives adequate oxygen and nourishment. Regular check-ups, managing chronic conditions, and adopting a healthy lifestyle can significantly reduce skin aging.

By incorporating these habits into your daily routine, especially starting in your 20s, you can effectively delay the signs of aging and maintain healthy and vibrant skin.