Photos| King of Varanasi’s Ghats: Life and death on the banks of the Ganga | Hindustan Times
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Photos| King of Varanasi’s Ghats: Life and death on the banks of the Ganga

Updated On Jul 16, 2018 09:42 AM IST

It is well past midnight as Bahadur Choudhary, a fourth-generation caretaker of Varanasi's ancient cremation grounds, sprinkles ceremonial butter on huge funeral pyres burning on the banks of the Ganga. Born a keeper of the flame, tradition dictates that Choudhary oversee the sacred fires and cremation grounds at Varanasi that Hindus believe free them from the cycle of life and death. These custodians are the Doms, a small community living by Varanasi's burning "ghats", where cremation fires burn day and night and the smell of the dead hangs heavy in the air.

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A member of the Dom community tends to a funeral pyre at the Manikarnika ghat in Varanasi. The Doms are a small community living by Varanasi’s ghats, where cremation fires burn day and night and the smell of the dead hangs heavy in the air. For centuries the community has provided the ceremonial flame used to cremate the dead brought here for “moksha”, or release from the Hindu life cycles. (Chandan Khanna / AFP) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Jul 16, 2018 09:42 AM IST

A member of the Dom community tends to a funeral pyre at the Manikarnika ghat in Varanasi. The Doms are a small community living by Varanasi’s ghats, where cremation fires burn day and night and the smell of the dead hangs heavy in the air. For centuries the community has provided the ceremonial flame used to cremate the dead brought here for “moksha”, or release from the Hindu life cycles. (Chandan Khanna / AFP)

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Bahadur Choudhary, 48, a fourth-generation caretaker of Varanasi's ancient cremation grounds. Choudhary is illiterate, poor and low caste, but his role in Varanasi, one of the holiest cities in India, is sacrosanct in Hindu mythology. “The dead are our only business,” said Choudhary. Choudhury and his community survive on whatever the mourners pay them. (Chandan Khanna / AFP) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Jul 16, 2018 09:42 AM IST

Bahadur Choudhary, 48, a fourth-generation caretaker of Varanasi's ancient cremation grounds. Choudhary is illiterate, poor and low caste, but his role in Varanasi, one of the holiest cities in India, is sacrosanct in Hindu mythology. “The dead are our only business,” said Choudhary. Choudhury and his community survive on whatever the mourners pay them. (Chandan Khanna / AFP)

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Choudhary (R) at his house as people gather to meet him at the Harishchandra ghat in the old quarters of Varanasi. “Some can barely afford the cremation,” he said. “Others make generous donations, and even offer to feed all the labourers.” He earns as little as 150 rupees ($2) for back-breaking labour that could last 18 hours. However, a good day could bring up to $75, said Choudhury. (Chandan Khanna / AFP) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Jul 16, 2018 09:42 AM IST

Choudhary (R) at his house as people gather to meet him at the Harishchandra ghat in the old quarters of Varanasi. “Some can barely afford the cremation,” he said. “Others make generous donations, and even offer to feed all the labourers.” He earns as little as 150 rupees ($2) for back-breaking labour that could last 18 hours. However, a good day could bring up to $75, said Choudhury. (Chandan Khanna / AFP)

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Men unload a dead body from a van at the Harishchandra ghat. Despite the importance of their ceremonial duty in Hindu funeral rites, the Doms hail from the bottom rungs of the Dalit community. All are engaged at some level in the cremation business -- maintaining fires in the ghat temples, arranging wood for the pyres or selling flowers and other ornaments for the ceremony. (Chandan Khanna / AFP) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Jul 16, 2018 09:42 AM IST

Men unload a dead body from a van at the Harishchandra ghat. Despite the importance of their ceremonial duty in Hindu funeral rites, the Doms hail from the bottom rungs of the Dalit community. All are engaged at some level in the cremation business -- maintaining fires in the ghat temples, arranging wood for the pyres or selling flowers and other ornaments for the ceremony. (Chandan Khanna / AFP)

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Men carry a dead body for cremation. The most coveted role is that of “king” of the ghats -- a temporary designation that rotates through Dom families. The titleholder is afforded clout, honour and additional alms in the day-to-day running of the cremations. (Chandan Khanna / AFP) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Jul 16, 2018 09:42 AM IST

Men carry a dead body for cremation. The most coveted role is that of “king” of the ghats -- a temporary designation that rotates through Dom families. The titleholder is afforded clout, honour and additional alms in the day-to-day running of the cremations. (Chandan Khanna / AFP)

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On the ghats, the Doms spend long hours surrounded by the heat of pyres and the swirling chaos synonymous with Varanasi. (Chandan Khanna / AFP) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Jul 16, 2018 09:42 AM IST

On the ghats, the Doms spend long hours surrounded by the heat of pyres and the swirling chaos synonymous with Varanasi. (Chandan Khanna / AFP)

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Some also sift for any valuables, including gold ornaments or even gold teeth left behind on the bodies by family members. Most within the marginalised community work are confined to menial jobs tending to the dead. (Chandan Khanna / AFP) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Jul 16, 2018 09:42 AM IST

Some also sift for any valuables, including gold ornaments or even gold teeth left behind on the bodies by family members. Most within the marginalised community work are confined to menial jobs tending to the dead. (Chandan Khanna / AFP)

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A boy sits on a van with the dead body of a relative. Choudhary wanted his two sons to find a different path in life, but both dropped out of school to follow in their father’s footsteps, he said. They will become the fifth generation from his family to tend the pyres. (Chandan Khanna / AFP) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Jul 16, 2018 09:42 AM IST

A boy sits on a van with the dead body of a relative. Choudhary wanted his two sons to find a different path in life, but both dropped out of school to follow in their father’s footsteps, he said. They will become the fifth generation from his family to tend the pyres. (Chandan Khanna / AFP)

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People wait for a dead body to finish being cremated at the Manikarnika ghat. “Times may change but nothing will change here. People will keep dying and coming to Varanasi, and will look to the Doms to do the sacred work of the gods,” Choudhury said. (Chandan Khanna / AFP) expand-icon View Photos in a new improved layout
Updated on Jul 16, 2018 09:42 AM IST

People wait for a dead body to finish being cremated at the Manikarnika ghat. “Times may change but nothing will change here. People will keep dying and coming to Varanasi, and will look to the Doms to do the sacred work of the gods,” Choudhury said. (Chandan Khanna / AFP)

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