
Delhiwale: The Basti’s best-kept secret
Although made of stone, it almost looks soft. We have never seen anybody here. It stands in all its glory like a perfect city secret.
Most visitors to central Delhi’s Hazrat Nizamuddin Basti are either interested in the Sufi shrine of the same name or in poet Ghalib’s grave tucked within a quiet courtyard. Nobody cares for Atgah Khan’s tomb. A Mughal-era noble, he was murdered by a rival in king Akbar’s court.
Encircled by multi-storied shanties, the mausoleum’s 16th-century grace contrasts sharply with the makeshift nature of modern-day brick structures. The way to this monument is through a small courtyard that could be mistaken for a private residence.
Except for its marble dome, the red sandstone edifice is embellished with floral patterns and marble inlays of Islamic calligraphy — someone has scrawled ‘I love you’ below a carved inscription. Thankfully, the monument is currently being restored.

While here, do not forget to look out for a west-facing wall. It shows remains of yellow, blue and green tiles; they impress upon the senses like recollections of a faded dream. Next to it is an arched courtyard; its slender flute-shaped columns have blackened with time.
Inside the tomb‘s dark chamber, daylight enters through lattice screens. There are three graves — each ornately inlaid with calligraphies and floral patterns.

Rarely visited by lovers of old buildings, the tomb’s forsaken stones are craving for attention. Come on a moonlit night when the monument seems as intangible as a poem.


Farmers' protest: Tikait brothers differ, situation tense at Ghazipur border

Delhi reports less than 200 new Covid-19 cases for sixth straight day

Additional police forces deployed at protest sites, farmers fear eviction

Need at least 3 to 5 years to upgrade sewage treatment plants: Delhi government

DMRC opens Lal Quila, Jama Masjid Metro station gates

R-Day violence unfortunate, but farm laws still an issue: Delhi CM Kejriwal

On farmers' tractor rally violence, Kejriwal says ‘incident doesn’t end protest'

Delhi police registers case against banned outfit Sikhs for Justice under UAPA

Mild earthquake of 2.8 magnitude hits Delhi

Cold wave in Delhi, minimum drops to 3.8 degrees Celsius

Delhi doctor takes vaccine, angry wife says ‘why couldn’t you take me along’

Delhi riots: State govt prosecutor hiding relevant info, cops tell SC

Blanket of fog shrouds Delhi, IMD predicts minimum temperature of 4°C

Farmers’ protest: Traffic resumes at Delhi’s Chilla border, others remain shut
