This month, chef Yosuke Suga’s Sugalabo in Tokyo, Japan, made headlines for its selective dining policy inspired by Japan’s old Ichigensan okotowari custom, where first-time guests are not admitted without an introduction. With just 20 seats, no online bookings and no fixed hours, entry is by private number only.
Even in the Capital the dining scene is shaking up. If snagging a reservation felt like a challenge, the new age of invite-only and members-only restaurants is rewriting the rules. Moving beyond traditional VIP lounges and tiny, limited-seating spots, restaurateurs are curating spaces where access is not about money alone; it’s about belonging.
For Zorawar Kalra, the founder of a members-only rooftop bar, Mamma Killa, it’s about building a “tribe that gets it”. He sees the model as a way to “strip away the noise and focus on the essence”, creating an immersive journey that celebrates culinary craftsmanship without compromise. “The entry is not transactional; it’s by invitation, through referrals, conversations, and instinct,” he says.
Kalra looks for individuals who “vibe with the philosophy” and view dining as art. His aim is to cultivate a circle of like-minded gourmands who “elevate the overall experience”.
Thoughtful, not transactional
This sentiment is echoed by Prateek Gupta of Cafe Dali After Hours, who describes membership as “thoughtful, not transactional”. Guests are invited after referrals or conversations that align with the restaurant’s values: slow dining and meaningful engagement. He likens his space to a “modern-day speakeasy for aesthetes”.
{{/usCountry}}This sentiment is echoed by Prateek Gupta of Cafe Dali After Hours, who describes membership as “thoughtful, not transactional”. Guests are invited after referrals or conversations that align with the restaurant’s values: slow dining and meaningful engagement. He likens his space to a “modern-day speakeasy for aesthetes”.
{{/usCountry}}Similarly, Rakshay Dhariwal of Pass Code Hospitality notes that the appetite for this model is only growing: “The market for exclusive experiences has been expanding ever since.”
For Dhariwal, who opened The Director’s Room at PCO, a private, reservation-only cocktail experience and also runs A Ta Maison (ATM), a members-only club, the trend reflects a maturing Indian palate: “A new generation of Indian consumers are well-travelled and well-acquainted with global luxury concepts. They’re prioritising bespoke experiences over material possessions, seeking personalised, high-end environments for socialising and networking."
Other international restaurants also thrive on secrecy and exclusivity:
Matsukawa and Mibu (Tokyo): revered for their extreme exclusivity and invite-only access.
Bohemian (New York): hidden behind a butcher shop, accessible only by invitation.
Hori (New York): an eight-seat izakaya where owners politely turn away walk-ins without an invite.
The Fat Badger (London): an exclusive Notting Hill pub that once hosted a private party for actor Margot Robbie, before later opening up reservations.
Casa Bonita (Denver, USA): a theatrical Mexican restaurant that stayed invite-only for over a year before opening to the public.