What's in a dress code? 76% Indian unis like IIT, IIM ditch colonial caps & gowns in favour of traditional attire; read
India has been witnessing a shift in its graduation traditions - as universities replace colonial black caps and gowns with sarees, read what the students think
Over the past few years, India has been witnessing a significant shift in its graduation traditions. The once-ubiquitous black cap and gown, borrowed from Western academic customs, are gradually being replaced by traditional Indian attire for convocation ceremonies. This change in dress code, sparked by a 2015 directive from the University Grants Commission (UGC), is part of a broader cultural movement to reclaim India’s heritage and promote pride in local traditions. But how has this shift played out in practice, and what does it mean for the future of academic dress codes in India?
In July 2015, the UGC issued a directive that sent ripples through universities across India. The letter, in alignment with Prime Minister Modi's Make in India initiative, called for a departure from Western gowns and caps at convocations in favour of traditional Indian attire. The advisory emphasized the importance of preserving the country's heritage and suggested the use of handloom fabrics for ceremonial dresses, aligning with efforts to revive the handloom sector and improve the livelihoods of weavers. Moreover, the UGC argued that such attire would be more suitable for India's hot and humid weather conditions, offering both comfort and cultural relevance. The advisory was reissued in 2019 and then in 2024.
The impact of the shift
As of 2024, the movement to phase out Western-style gowns is well underway. According to a report by The Indian Express, approximately 76% of Indian universities have now adopted traditional attire for their convocation ceremonies. Among the prestigious Indian Institutes of Technology (IITs), 22 out of 23 have embraced Indian clothing for graduations, with only IIT-Delhi continuing to follow the colonial-era dress code. Similarly, of the 21 Indian Institutes of Management (IIMs), 14 have abandoned traditional gowns, though some have opted for Western-style formal attire with a stole instead of Indian garments.
Among the Central Universities funded by the Ministry of Education (MoE), 34 out of 48 have phased out the Western robes and caps. Notably, four institutions — Mahatma Gandhi Antarrashtriya Hindi Vishwavidyalaya, Visva Bharati, Tezpur University, and Shri Lal Bahadur Shastri National Sanskrit University — had already embraced traditional attire before the 2015 UGC directive. However, some universities have adopted a hybrid approach, combining Western and Indian elements in their convocation outfits.
What's in a dress code?
Wearing what you want is the ideal state of being, but on a few occasions, having a dress code can in fact be a symbol of solidarity and culture. The Indian Institute of Technology, Hyderabad (IITH), provides a notable example of this shift. As mentioned on their blog, in 2009 IITH introduced a dress code that mandated ethnic attire for convocation: men were to wear saree or dhotis, and women were expected to wear sarees or salwar kameez, in off-white or pale cream Mangalagiri cotton or silk.
The initiative, led by Professor Jayanthi Sivaswamy and Professor Dipti Misra, aimed to replace the uncomfortable black robes with garments better suited to the climate and the institute’s ethos. The inclusion of anangavastram (stole) in the dress code was another distinctive feature, with the hope that graduates would keep it as a memento of their academic journey.
Initially, the change was met with resistance. Some students were reluctant to abandon the iconic black gown, and the idea of wearing traditional attire for a formal occasion seemed foreign to them. But, as Professor Misra recalls, the objections were not overwhelming. On the day of the convocation, students turned up wearing a diverse array of traditional clothing — from dhotis and lungis to sarongs and the more familiar kurta-pyjamas and sarees. The scene was lively and festive, capturing the spirit of the occasion in a way that the black gowns never could.
Looking ahead, it’s clear that India’s academic attire is evolving. The black gown and cap may still hold a place in certain institutions, but for the majority, traditional attire is now the preferred choice. This change represents not just a rejection of colonial-era practices but also a reinvigoration of India’s cultural identity, allowing students to celebrate their heritage as they mark one of the most significant milestones of their academic journey.
Recommended Topics