The look this season on fashion runways and in the tinsel corridors of Bollywood is luscious lips with bright colours and rainbow eye patches in techni-colour shades. The tan is back and dusky Indian belles are hot.
"The theme this fall (autumn) is lots of strong mouths in pink, bright red and orange - ultra-feminine shades that light up spirits and enhance the girlie appeal," make up artist and stylist Ambika Pillai told IANS.
Pillai, who owns a chain of styling salons, gave south Indian starlet Ileana D' Cruz an image makeover in a live demonstration at the Wills Lifestyle Indian Fashion Week (WIFW) here Friday evening.
"Let the lips do the talking instead of pouting in dull and over-dark lip shades of chocolate browns and burgundy. Vibrant colours are back in a big way. My advice is wear a strong colour so that the lips make a statement," Pillai said.
The stylist has worked with almost every leading designer, who showcased their ensembles at the WIFW.
Pillai used a formula to balance the facial make-up tones of the models. "When I highlighted the lips, I kept the eye make-up subtle but when the eyes were laden with colours to match the clothes, the lips of the models were shorn of colours."
{{/usCountry}}Pillai used a formula to balance the facial make-up tones of the models. "When I highlighted the lips, I kept the eye make-up subtle but when the eyes were laden with colours to match the clothes, the lips of the models were shorn of colours."
{{/usCountry}}Pillai used coloured patches in blue, yellow, mango and pink around the eyes in marble (in coloured bands of eye shadows) strokes to highlight the eye-zone.
"I created eye-patches for models walking the ramp in Ritu Kumar's clothes in the Wills show," she said.
Pillai, one of the most highly-rated make-up artistes, has worked with stars like Aishwarya Rai, Sushmita Sen, Bipasha Basu and Deepika Padukone.
"Though I received a national award for the best make-up artiste of the year after doing up Aishwarya's face, I enjoyed working with Bipasha and Deepika.
"Bipasha is gorgeous - she just oozes sex appeal. She can carry off any colours on her lips and eyes, whether it is pale or bright. But nude shades look best on Bipasha," Pillai said.
Deepika, felt Pillai, has one of the most flawless skin tones. "After many years we have found someone to rival Aishwarya's good looks. She is a make-up artiste's delight," Pillai said.
The Delhi-based artiste has strong views on complexion. "I don't know why Indians rave about fair skins. Dusky women are still the loveliest. Everyone I know of is acquiring a tan," she said.
The stylist recommended shades like old rose with touches of deep pink and pomegranate for lips on dusky skin tones. "But ensure there's maroon in it," she warned.
The mantra for the face this autumn, Pillai said, was luminous.
"Use a primer underneath the foundation which should ideally be cream-based. Match it with a creamy blush so that the fresh, flushed dewy look comes through," she said.
But she advised against overdoing it. "Less makeup that just about highlights the features looks beautiful. It is the Hollywood look."