The looped road got more convoluted as we drove through tall pine forests, navigating hairpin bends. A few bends away, we could spot the snow- tipped peaks of the Himalayan ranges. I was in Devbhoomi — the abode of Gods — in Uttarakhand and headed to a place called Chaukori. The car groaned up through the thick forests and we switched off the CD player to enjoy the exquisite birdsongs.
As we drove through a small town, the aroma of ginger tea and freshly fried pakoras from the roadside dhabas tickled our nostrils. We were in a place called Gangolihaat. Ensconced in the lap of a mountain, with tiny houses dotting the hill-face, the place seemed straight out of a picture book. Almost everyone in this little town was lolling in the sun. They seemed to be in no hurry.
Unique charms
Waylaid by the smell of tea, we stopped at the teashop of Ram Thapliyal, a former havaldar, and caught up with the local news. We asked the affable owner about the interesting places to visit. “Yahan woh hai joh kahin bhi nahin hai (Here, you’ll find what you won’t find anywhere else),” he replied mysteriously, and went on to tell us about the beautiful birds, trees and snow-clad peaks and the powers of Goddess Kalika who resided in a nearby temple.
He also told us about Patal Bhuvaneshwar, a limestone cave that is considered the abode of a pantheon of Hindu gods.
From the genial ex-soldier, we learnt that most of the inhabitants of the small town were connected to the defence forces in some way.
“There is no livelihood in this area so people are forced to join the defence forces,” he said. Sensing our interest, another customer joined our group.
“Our men join the army because they are brave,” he said. “Just a few days ago, 61-year-old Soban Ram killed a leopard with his dagger.” My ears perked up. “So there are leopards in this area?” I asked.
“Madam, this place is like home for leopards,” Thapliyal said. “Jim Corbett spent years in this region.”
A slice of spirituality
The duo asked us to make a pit stop for the night. You could see the temple and the cave, they offered. And maybe even spot a leopard.
We thought that ‘Gangoli’, the name, sounded Bengali. But it turned out to be a distortion of its old name, Gangawali. In ancient literature, the land that lay between the Saryu River and Ramganga was called Gangawali. Over time, that name changed to Gangolihaat.
Contrary to our assumption that this was a little-known place, tourists throng the sleepy town of Gangolihaat. Travellers come from far and beyond to enjoy a slice of spirituality. The much revered Kalika temple is the first stop for all. It stands amidst a cluster of pine trees, isolated from the main town. Strangely, it is a peaceful place without the usual din of devotees and priests.
The idol in the temple represents the fierce form of the goddess. When the Adi Shankaracharya visited Kumaon, the goddess is believed to have appeared in his dream and asked him to consecrate the spot.
Interestingly, the Kumaon Regiment has helped construct buildings in the temple compound and donated a sizeable amount for the temple’s upkeep.
According to the priest, during the British Raj, soldiers and officers of the regiment were travelling to foreign lands on a ship, which began to sink mid-sea. When all else failed, the soldiers prayed to Goddess Haat Kali to save their ship. A miracle brought the ship safely ashore. Since then, the Kumaon Regiment has been dedicated to goddess Kalika.
Subterranean wonder
Paying my obeisance to the potent goddess, I made my way towards Patal Bhuvaneshwar, considered one of the seven subterranean wonders of the world. The holy cave is said to be the abode of no less than 33 crore Hindu gods and goddesses.
It took a lot of coaxing from my guide to convince me to enter the narrow and frightening mouth of the cave. The small opening makes it impossible to sit or crouch while climbing down the cave. We had to slither down slippery rocks barefoot, like snakes, while holding on to the chains that had been provided on either side.
I had hardly descended about 20 steps when the power went off and it became pitch dark inside. Cold and frightened, we began yelling till the guide assured us that the generator would start in a few minutes. It was several minutes before the lights came on and we began slithering down once again.
We descended almost 85 steps before our feet hit the wet and muddy ground. It felt as though we had reached the centre of the earth.
An underground city
Patal Bhuvaneshwar is not just a cave, but an entire cave city. Our guide pointed out many gods from the vast Hindu pantheon with his torch, lighting up the limestone formations before our wondrous eyes.
All around us were spectacular stalactite and stalagmite figures. Each stalagmite reveals the shape of gods, goddesses and saints.
‘According to legend the cave is connected by an underground passage to Mount Kailash, the abode of Shiva,’ the guide explained, illuminating a narrow path on one end.
The subterranean abode of gods is as unreal as it could get, I thought, listening to his spiel.
As I emerged from the dark and cold womb of the earth, the snow covered peaks of Nanda Devi and the Pachhuli Range loomed before my eyes. This was bliss, I realised, even if it came wrapped in religious myths. It had been a great idea to halt at Gangolihaat.
Tanushree is a freelance writer who loves to travel.
Getting there
Kathgodam, about 200 kms away from Gangolihaat, is the nearest railhead. From Kathgodam, you can hire a taxi directly to Gangolihaat and Patal Bhuvaneshwar via Almora
Where to stay
Clean and affordable rest houses operated by Kumaon Madal Vikas Nigam are available at both Gangolihaat and Patal Bhuvaneshwar. You can also stay at Parwati Inn, a resort facing the mountains
Remember
Photography is not allowed inside Patal Bhuvaneshwar. All personal belongings have to be deposited at the entrance.