First, emeralds showed up on celebrity brides. Kiara Advani wore an eye-catching multilayered necklace to her wedding in February. Next, the green gems were at swish events. Billionaire Anant Ambani flaunted his emerald-studded Patek Philippe — a watch worth the price of a luxury home in Mumbai — at the opening of the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Center in March. They were all over the Oscars: Jenny Slate wore a necklace with a pear-shaped Zambian emerald by Massimo Gismondi for Genoa; and Nobel laureate Malala Yousafzai wore an emerald flower ring by Santi Jewels.
We even saw them on the red carpet. At Cannes this summer, Urvashi Rautela wore a crocodile neckpiece credited to TOi Jewelry, which bore a striking resemblance to Cartier’s iconic 1975 diamond-and-emerald design. Alia Bhatt’s gigantic cushion-cut Russian emeralds at the June Manish Malhotra show have a following of their own. Emeralds were at yet another high-profile wedding. Parineeti Chopra wore a multi-tiered necklace featuring uncut Russian and Zambian emeralds by Manish Malhotra in September. And when Isha Ambani Piramal got ready for the opening of the Jio World Plaza in Mumbai last month, she wore an emerald choker.
Emeralds, from milky olive to deep green, as single-stone designs or multi-layered jewellery, have been worn to so many A-list events this year that Yash Agarwal, creative director at Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers, dubbed 2023 the year of emeralds. Designer Manish Malhotra, who created several of this year’s most photographed pieces, says it’s “not just a passing trend but a celebration of the gem’s enduring charm”. See why the stone is having a moment.
The setting
Emeralds have always been a royal favourite. They’ve been looted from the Pyramids, helped maharajas ward off the evil eye, been cut and recut into tiaras, necklaces and earrings as monarchies rose and fell across Europe. Cartier’s Art Deco emerald, diamond and enamel brooch from the early 20th century sold for $1.45 million at the Christie’s Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence sale in June 2019. The Taj Mahal emerald, part of the Al Thani Collection owned by the Qatari royal family, went on display at the Treasures from India exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in 2014 -15. Emerald necklaces of the Maharaja of Nawanagar, some designed by Jacques Cartier himself, keep showing up at auctions.
{{/usCountry}}Emeralds have always been a royal favourite. They’ve been looted from the Pyramids, helped maharajas ward off the evil eye, been cut and recut into tiaras, necklaces and earrings as monarchies rose and fell across Europe. Cartier’s Art Deco emerald, diamond and enamel brooch from the early 20th century sold for $1.45 million at the Christie’s Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence sale in June 2019. The Taj Mahal emerald, part of the Al Thani Collection owned by the Qatari royal family, went on display at the Treasures from India exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in 2014 -15. Emerald necklaces of the Maharaja of Nawanagar, some designed by Jacques Cartier himself, keep showing up at auctions.
{{/usCountry}}But there’s a reason everyone’s bringing their emeralds out of their velvet-lined vaults now, says Agarwal: “First, these go exceptionally well with garments of varied colour palettes. Second, people are becoming aware of the significance of coloured stones in jewellery.”
Vandana M Jagwani, creative director of Mahesh Notandass and founder of Vandals, adds that emeralds maintain value over extended periods and are more coveted than other gemstones. “It’s why they serve as both a fashion statement and a prudent investment. Their vibrance, when compared to relatively muted rubies, sapphires and other gemstones is also a factor.”
A fresh hue
Plus, there’s that rich spectrum of green that pops on red carpets, selfie cameras and bridal finery, and sets off the pastel fashion palette of the moment. Use them as a striking centrepiece or as an understated accent; emeralds adapt well. It’s what makes them “suitable for both statement pieces and minimalist jewellery, depending on the styling,” says Tarang Arora, creative director at Amrapali Jewels.
Stylist Richa Mehta recently chose an eye-catching emerald necklace to dress actor Amyra Dastur for the opening night of the Jio MAMI Mumbai Film Festival. “Emerald chokers and earrings create strong style statements,” she says. “These gems have always been sought after for their rarity. But for the current minimalist and pastel trends, they’re the perfect match.”
Look to Sonam Kapoor Ahuja, who knows exactly how versatile the jewel is. At Cannes 2019, she rocked an emerald-encrusted, multi-tiered Chopard necklace, paired with a custom Ralph & Russo tuxedo, minus the shirt. In August 2021, she contrasted her Abu-Sandeep pale pink anarkali with a pop of emeralds in her choker for fashion stylist Antara Motiwala Marwah’s baby shower in Mumbai. And for the NMACC after-party in Mumbai in April, she teamed an emerald choker with a voluminous cocktail dress. “The allure of a top-tier emerald can transcend even that of a diamond, which is often reflected in its price,” says Gautam Soni, managing director at The House of MBj. Perhaps, diamonds are no longer enough.
Choice cuts
Stylist Sheefa J Gilani has tips for styling emeralds for the coming season:
● Set them off against neutral tones such as black, white, or beige. They also complement deep purples and rich reds. The key is in balancing the jewels with your outfit.
● For a casual, everyday look, consider emerald studs or a delicate pendant.
● For formal occasions, choose emerald drop earrings, larger studs, a simple bracelet or a statement necklace.
● Pair a traditional outfit with a kundan emerald necklace or emerald-encrusted bangles.
● When in doubt, clip on an emerald-studded wristwatch.