Born in Chennai and raised in Dubai, Vivek Ramabhadran was exposed to multiple cultures and lifestyles from an early age. His household had a rich cultural fabric, and he visited his grandparents almost every summer. However, he always felt that he was viewing India and all that was happening there from the outside. In retrospect, he says, this gave him a broader perspective.
As high school came to an end, it was understood that Vivek would study engineering. This culminated in four transformative years in India where he was surrounded by intelligent people who really set standards. However, he soon realised he did not want to pursue engineering and as he did his masters in the US and got the chance to test waters in the workspace, he discovered his interest and aptitude for the business side of things. What followed was an ever-evolving career which took him to companies like Starbucks and McKinsey and had him experience multiple cities and countries.
Lighting the spark
When Vivek was offered a position at Swarovski, he knew absolutely nothing about jewellery or fashion. He worked on business development and learned the ropes; it is here that Vivek’s interest in jewellery spark(l)ed. One year later, he was presented the opportunity to become the managing director of the company in India. Vivek was part of the core team behind Swarovski’s ‘Confluence’ project which entailed fine jewellery created in collaboration with some of India’s leading designers, such as Rohit Bal, Gaurav Gupta, Eina Ahluwalia, JJ Valaya and Amrapali. Confluence’s success encouraged Vivek to pitch wearable jewellery as its own segment. Whereas everything seemed on track, the pandemic had other plans and it did not end up materialising.
Consequently, Vivek wanted to apply his learnings about the jewellery industry in the real world. He set about founding a platform which would cater to the evolving demands and needs of customers.
{{/usCountry}}Consequently, Vivek wanted to apply his learnings about the jewellery industry in the real world. He set about founding a platform which would cater to the evolving demands and needs of customers.
{{/usCountry}}“I noticed that jewellery is changing- a woman now wants to wear jewellery that is an expression of her values and not just the jewellery her mother gifts her. I thought I could make a big dent in this space.”
Earth first
There was a lot to consider but one thing that Vivek did know- his jewellery was going to be sustainable.“I was fascinated with sustainability. This started with the plant-based food movement. People are used to eating meat. They think it’s everything good, but it’s not good for the environment. There is a heavy carbon footprint and cost. I did so much research in the fashion space and noticed a similar dynamic with jewellery, which I have interest and experience in. Gold and diamonds are massively destructive for the environment, because of the mining and 90-95% jewellery is gold. In an era where we’re talking about sustainability in all other areas, we’ve assumed that jewellery must be gold. This must change.” And that’s how it all began for Aulerth – a new movement for jewellery.
“Etymologically, Aulerth is made up of two components: ‘Au’ is short for Aurum which is gold in Latin and ‘lerth’ is a new progressive form of preciousness that won’t destroy the earth.” This encapsulates the very essence of the brand. So, what is their jewellery made of if not gold and diamonds?
Vivek informs us that “the mining for a plain gold ring creates more than 20,000 kilos of waste and carbon emissions. We use recycled metals from automobiles, musical instruments, and other such objects. They’re in their second life. It is good quality brass, recycled and repurposed and then treated with gold plating to make sure it’s durable. The idea is not to make more fashion jewellery but to take away the consumption from gold jewellery.”
Having been part of the jewellery sector, Vivek fully comprehends that solely focusing on sustainability will not work. A high level of design has to go into the making of each piece.
“I felt it would be more powerful if we got on board designers who are known for their distinct styles. It would give the platform more gravitas to have a variety of different aesthetics. We first spoke to Suneet Varma, then JJ Valaya, followed by Amrapali and Shivan Narresh. Everyone was up for it!”
The cherry on top? Aulerth has gained the trust of prominent figures such as Tarun Tahiliani, Taro Nordheider (ex-CEO Swarovski Professional), the LV angel fund, and a network of McKinsey partners who have all invested in the project to the tune of 1.1 million US dollars.
With a plan this solid it was no surprise that the response to the website and their first exhibition has been nothing short of phenomenal. “I really feel more confident that we have an amazing base to really change jewellery,” says Vivek.
Closing the circle
If you’re apprehensive about wearing a necklace which may have been a component of a random machine in a previous life, a glimpse at Aulerth’s website may allay your doubts. There is a mix of light, everyday jewellery for the woman on the go, and more ornate pieces ideal for weddings and other special occasions. The pieces honour traditional Indian design forms whilst keeping modern, contemporary aesthetics in mind. Sleek chokers, bejewelled cuffs, geometric earrings – each piece shines on its own.
Since few people wear statement jewellery repeatedly, Aulerth Loop lets you rent multiple pieces for a period of three weeks during which you can wear them as much as you like. And if you do buy something, you have the option to come back after a year and exchange it for a new design. “Our idea is the harmony of a circular model which is good for the environment and also provides flexibility for the client as they always have access to lots more designs,” says Vivek.
What’s next for the new entrepreneur? “It’s all about Aulerth from here on. Building the base, opening offline stores next year and keep on building the awareness and bringing more people into our fold.”
Vivek’s picks:
1. Numisma Choker by Shivan Narresh in black enamel
2. Rumeli Cuff by JJ Valaya
3. Hymns of Springtime Collar by Tribe Amrapali
4. Luna Necklace by Suneet Varma
Favourite all-time designers:
Chanel
Tory Burch
Versace
Dior
Swarovski
Sabyasachi
TarunTahiliani on Aulerth:
“Much needed, Aulerth will break the mould and redefine India’s approach to jewellery preciousness. Vivek brings a unique combination of strategic acumen and deep understanding of fashion, jewellery, and the designer space. He has blended sustainability and desirability beautifully into Aulerth, and I look forward to this platform being a progressive highly relevant leader in the Indian and global luxury landscape soon.”
From HT Brunch, December 3, 2022
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