Khavanu, Pivanu, Majja Ni Life!

From Patrani Machhi to Lagan Nu Custard, Parsi cuisine offers a magnificent amalgamation of sweet, sour and spicy flavours. Ahead of the Parsi New Year, we take a look at some popular dishes

Festivities are all about customs, traditions and delectable dishes. And Parsi New Year, celebrated on August 16, is no different. A spread of authentic delicacies, each with its own relevance, adds flavour and cheer to the celebration of a new beginning.

Patrani Machhi (fish parcels) are extremely popular Parsi dish.

In India, Parsi New Year — also known as Navroz — is celebrated twice, according to the Iranian and Shahenshahi calendars respectively. “The first one usually falls on the spring equinox, that is March 21, and the other one is celebrated in late July or August, since the Shahenshahi calendar does not include leap years,” says Ashish Singh, corporate chef, Dhansoo Cafe, Delhi. The upcoming New Year is celebrated after 15 days of sraddha (a ritual to pay homage to the ones who are no more). “Our sraddha is called Muktad and the 15th day is known as Pateti. The morning of the 16th day marks the start of a New Year as per the Shahenshahi calendar,” says Anahita Dhondy, a Parsi chef. The day is also called Navroz, based on a story of a Persian king who is believed to have saved the world from destruction.

The most common methods of cooking Parsi dishes include steaming and baking. “Parsis adore consuming vegetables, fish, lamb, chicken, eggs and dairy products. Rice with lentils and curry prepared with coconut are all favourites. Parsis are also experts in pudding-making,” says Reetu Uday Kugaji, a culinary expert.

Another dish popular in the Parsi community is Chicken Farcha. “It is often served as an appetiser at festivities of all kinds, from birthdays to weddings to family dinners,” says Singh, who has conceptualised a special Parsi menu for the occasion. “The Navroz (New Year) menu in Dhansoo cafe from August 16 to 21 is offering dishes such as Sali Boti, Akuri, Sali Marghi, Chicken Farcha, Patra Ni Machhi and Parsi Sev.” One can also visit NH44, Delhi, to try some authentic Parsi food.

Desserts, too, are a crucial part of the menu for the special day. A traditional dessert, ravo is usually prepared during New Year in all Parsi households. “The morning begins with ravo, which is semolina cooked in sweetened flavoured milk and topped with rich dry fruits that have been fried in ghee. This is to signify a sweet beginning. Lunch is usually dhan, dar and patio, which is essentially rice, yellow aal, and a sweet, sour and spicy fish or prawn preparation. It signifies prosperity,” says Yajush Malik, culinary head at Gallops, Mumbai. Lagan Nu Custard prepared with milk, eggs, sugar, green cardamom powder, vanilla extract and charoli is another popular Parsi dessert. The restaurant has curated authentic Parsi festive specials such as Kolmi Kebabs, Akuri, Saas Ni Machhi, Salli Boti and Dudh Na Puff.

Lagan Nu Custard

Recipe: Lagan Nu Custard

Ingredients:

1 litre milk

100g condensed milk

250g sugar

3 eggs

2 drops of vanilla extract

Cardamom powder to taste

A pinch of nutmeg powder

200g charoli seeds

Method:

Heat your oven to 200° Celsius

Mix the milk, sugar and condensed milk in a thick bottomed vessel and heat on low flame until it changes to a pale brown colour. It should reduce its volume by about 20%. In another bowl, break the eggs and whisk lightly.

Now, slowly combine the hot milk, one ladle at a time, into the eggs while whisking continuously so as to not cook and curdle the eggs.

Repeat until the milk and eggs are fully blended.

Add in the vanilla, cardamon and nutmeg.

Line a baking pan or ramekin with a little butter, pour in the milk and egg custard, top with charoli and bake till set, or till a skewer comes out clean (approximately 60-75 minutes depending on your oven). If you feel the top is getting too brown, you can cover it with aluminium foil and let the custard continue to cook until set.

Allow it to cool and then chill in the fridge.

Recipe by Yajush Malik, culinary head, Gallops