Bytes from across the border

On a recent trip to Pakistan, Monica Sharma shares her diverse experiences in the sisterland

15 Minutes of fame

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It takes years to slowly climb theladder of success in journalism,and people still don't recogniseyou by face -- well, unlessyou're Vir Sanghvi that is. But, ittakes just a few minutes for ajournalist, especially female, toachieve 'celeb' status while crossingthe India-Pakistan border.

That's right! As soon as yourfeet touch Pakistani soil, local TVreporters rush towards thewomen journalists, who are a rarityin Pakistan. With mikes inhand, eager for a byte for TV, theypromptly ask you to articulateyour feelings about India-Pakistanrelations.

So, on this five-day visit toLahore to attend a media conference,I basked in my newfoundglory. The VIP treatment continuedthroughout the stay.

Local television channels suchas Kohenoor news channel andExpress News were eager to havea panel discussion with the Indianjournalists. And, get this -- youdon't have to go to the television"sets" -- they come to you. TheTV anchors erect the sets at thehotel itself, as the organisers ofLahore Press Club restrict entry.

But before we know it, after afascinating five-day stay, packedwith sightseeing and entertainmentorganised by the press club,it's time to go. As we leave thecountry and return to the southside of the border, reality dawnsupon us. The VIP status quicklywears off and we are nothing shortof ordinary, once again.

Desi girls

But, many are under theimpression that reel and real lifeIndian lasses are one in the same.I had to clear things up. No, wedon't sleep in our bridal saris witha face full of makeup and kilos ofgold jewellery.

A Pakistani journalist revealedthat these serials are even responsiblefor strained relationshipsbetween husbands and wivesdue to the battle of the remotecontrol. In fact, he shared thatthese ladies remain glued to thetelevision for at least two hoursevery evening, neglecting theirhousehold chores.

Pakistan's golden palki

The golden palki (palanquin) carryingSikhism's holy text, theGuru Granth Sahib, was taken tothe birthplace of the first Sikhguru, Guru Nanak Dev, inNankana Sahib, near Lahore, in2005. But the golden canopy couldnot make its way inside the sacredsanctorum due to its enormoussize. It now sits in the courtyardjust next to the sanctorum. Infact, initially its two pillars werealso detached, as it could not beremoved from the bus.

A glass-covered shed has beenerected to keep the holy GranthSahib safe in the golden palki. Aguard is also positioned near thepalki to protect it. Among others,a woman granthi has also takenup the important task to recitethe holy text.

The palanquin, which is madeup of 15 kg of gold, was presentedby the Delhi Sikh GurdwaraManagement Committee(DSGMC) after the Pakistan SikhGurdwara ParbandhakCommittee (PSGPC) decided toreplace the marble canopy with agolden palanquin.

Foodies' haven

The night food street inChandigarh was constructedalong the lines of the one inLahore. In fact, Lahore's foodstreet has more of a fan followingthan the one in Chandigarh, mainlybecause of the traditionalPakistani food available, especiallythe non-veg delicacies.

Tale of two cities

On a bus ride journeying throughthe historic city of Lahore, we drivepast well-preserved monuments,free from the effect of time, withnothing more than the fallen leavesto litter the grounds. TheShalamar Gardens are reminiscentof Kalka's Pinjore Garden, only in amuch better condition. The cities,however, are far from clean.

The five-day sojourn in theParis of Pakistan, Lahore, isenough to cause a considerabledent in one's initial opinion of theplace. The road, which twists andturns through the history of thecity, took us to the historic fortand other sites from our hotel.These roads were not just wideand comparatively decongested,but also devoid of potholes, whichcharacterise the freeways runningthrough the length and breadth ofthe Indian cities.

The dazzling noon sun, apparentlya bit too warm for October,brings to light some scribbles onthe monuments as we reachLahore Fort on day two of the trip.This reminded me of another trip,which I took to Hyderabad.Humayun's Tomb in Hyderabadand the Sheesh Mahal in Lahore(in the Lahore Fort) have morethan just Mughal architecture incommon -- they are both alsomarred by graffiti. But the twocities, both predominantlyMuslim, have a startling difference-- that of the upkeep.

The tryst with the past inLahore makes it abundantly clearthat the Pakistanis have a bit morerespect for their culture and heritage.Be it the Sheesh Mahal orthe Shalamar Gardens, you cannotfind faults with the upkeep. As youstand face to face with Lahore'spast, it dawns upon you that Indiacan only catch up to its sisterlandacross the border, if people paymore respect to their heritage.

Historical shopping

A visit to the historic AnarkaliBazaar in Lahore, established byEmperor Jahangir, sets a familiarscene. The old market, ChandniChowk, in Delhi as well as thebazaars in Lucknow andHyderabad, share many similaritieswith those in Lahore. Thestructures, buildings, pathwaysand even the display of goods, isalmost the same. Even shopkeepershave the same style of hagglingwith customers.

Anarkali Bazaar, one of the oldestsurviving markets in SouthAsia, is reminiscent of the bygoneera. It was named after Anarkali,the love interest of Mughalemperor Akbar's son, Salim. Thebazaar is made up of a web of narrowpassages and lanes extendingtowards Old Lahore.

While wandering through thetapered lanes of the market, youwill find imitation royal Mughalstyle jewellery, pathani kurtas formen, suits with cotton lace forwomen, hair pieces and even thefamous Hashmi Surma. The shopkeepersare open to negotiate onprices and the rates can beslashed down to almost half. And,if you are an Indian visitor, youwill probably get an additional discountdue to the 'LahoriMahmanzi'.

Bollywood's best

Pakistanis love to watch Bollywoodmovies. Nothing wrong with that.But ask them who their favouriteactors are, and the answer may comeas a surprise -- no it's not the globe'smost renowned veteran actorAmitabh Bachchan. Nor is it some oftoday's hottest stars such as AkshayKumar and Ajay Devgn. Kareena isokay, but their hearts beat forKatrina Kaif.

The actors that topped the listof India's hottest are the Khans --Aamir, Salman, and Shah Rukh.The elders give no justification forthe rating. But a young boy does,"Of course they are our favourites-- they are bringing glory to theMuslim community worldwide."

Third eye

In Pakistan, you are never alone.And, it's not just the uneasy feelingof being in an unfamiliar territorythat accompanies you constantly.Day in and day out there is a thirdeye watching over you. No onereally knows whether it's the InterServices intelligence (ISI) keepinga tab on the activities of Indianjournalists or just a strange coincidencethat you feel like you'reunder observation.

But, one thing is for sure. Be itthe hotel lobby or corridors, thereare familiar strangers lurkingabout, struggli