Far from the madding crowd

What an inspiring place this must have been for an artist, someone remarked. The next time you're in Himachal Pradesh, do pay this charming town a visit.

For most people, a visit toKullu-Manali means anadrenaline rush. Adventureseekers can go skiing on theSnow Point en route to the RohtangPass; river rafting in the Beas;paragliding, river crossing ortrekking through the treacherousmountains. But I was craving forsome solace and solitude in themountains. I didn't find any until wewent to Naggar, a picturesque townfull of ancient riches.

The best way to explore thisabode made famous by the Russianpainter Nikolai Roerich, is on foot orby hiring a bicycle. It is a good getawayfrom the milling crowds innearby Kullu and Manali, and a perfectretreat for those searching fortranquillity.

Our first stop is the Naggar castlemade of rough-hewn stones andwooden beams, which is a throwbackto gentler times.

The castle is a far cry from all theimposing, fortified structures thatone has seen elsewhere. Instead, itis a cosy retreat overlooking theenchanting Beas valley. The 16thcentury castle built by Raja SidhSingh is richly embellished withwood carvings. Although it looksfragile, the structure withstood the1905 earthquake without even acrack or dent on it. The Jagtipathtemple on the premises has a storybehind it. Legend has it that thisrock venerated as a deity, was carriedfrom its home high in themountains to this location by godsin the form of bees.

The castle, now converted into ahotel by Himachal Tourism, wasswarming with foreigners. It waslunch time and tables had been laidout in the sunny courtyard. The deliciousaroma of fresh trout, a localdelicacy, hung in the air. We weretold that not far away from the hotelwas a hatchery in Patlikuhl, wherewe could sample fresh trout caughtfrom the Beas.

A short distance from the castlewas a wine shop selling an array offruit wines. Sipping apple juice, thesignature drink of HimachalPradesh, we walked towards theRoerich museum. The cottage home to Russian artist NikolaiRoerich, his wife Devika Rani, asuperstar of Hindi cinema in herday, and his equally famous sonSvetoslav Roerich is an art lover'sshrine. The rooms are locked so youcan only peep through the glasspanes. The art gallery downstairshas an exhibit of paintings by thefather-son duo. These are mostly oilon canvas, capturing the beauty ofthe mountains and its people. Theportraits of Devika Rani and PanditNehru are particularly captivating.

What an inspiring place this musthave been for an artist, someoneremarked. The next time you're inHimachal Pradesh, do pay thischarming town a visit.

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