Sands of time

The Bedouins of Petra have swapped their disdashas for denims and their caravans for cars. But despite their apparent modernisation, they never lost touch with their roots

A journey throughJordan is liketaking a tripback in time,especially whenyou enter thelost city of Petra. Romantombs, Nabatean temples andgigantic cliffs that give way tothe treasury, transport youinto an epic past. Much like incenturies gone by, even today,the Bedouins continue topopulate Petra.

When you think 'Bedouin',the images that come to mindare of an ancient people butwhat greets you is unexpected.Many Bedouin men dressin crisp shirts and chinosmuch like in our corporatesetups. While most Bedouinsown camels, they can also beseen speeding through thedesert in four-wheel drives.

Be the change
Ironically, the Bedouin tribesof Petra are called 'Bedul'which means 'change'. Yet,even though theyhave adapted to moderntimes, they've held onto theirculture which they showcaseto curious travellers. Onesuch Bedouin was Salem AlFaqeer, who practises the artof his forefathers -- bottledsand art.

While these bottles look nodifferent from sand art foundacross the Middle East,Salem informs that theycontain naturally-colouredsand as opposed to their dyedcounterparts. Salem says,"We have14 different stones inJordan that we work with.For instance, we grind thesandstone of Petra for redsand, limestone for whitesand and many others thatgive us a range of hues."

Salem works meticulouslyon bottles of all sizes and recreatesthe desert in them.With a long, thin metal stickas his brush, he works withthe fine sands and createsshapes of camels, eagles, andother symbols of the desert.He can even inscribe yourname in the bottle and makeit seem effortless.

But borrow the metalbrush from him and it's clearwithin seconds that this arttakes years of practise. Salemexplains, "I learned sand artfrom my grandfather and myfather. We used to live in thecaves of Petra when I was aboy and I'd go with them tothe ruins and collect thestones. Petra is my home andall the natural resources Ineed to live and work areright here." The stones damagedby earthquakes are theones that artists like Salemhave access to as they pose nothreat to the heritage site.

Until 1986, the Bedouinslived in Petra, but were laterrelocated to the Beduoin villageof Umm Suquiem inorder protect this site. AskSalem if he resents this moveand he says, "Not at all! Wewant to protect Petra asmuch as the government.Petra is part of my people'shistory and a world legacytoo. Naturally, there are timeswhen I miss sleeping under ablanket of stars or cooking byan open fire. But, whenever Icrave my old lifestyle I camphere for a night. We evenbring our traditional musicalinstruments and sing ourtribal songs late intothe night."

Just as Salem reminiscesabout the old way of life,almost on cue, a Bedouin girlcovers in the abaya walks intohis tent. She poses for thecamera when requested, butis quick to warn againstputting up the pictures onFacebook!

What is even morestartling is the interminglingbetween the Bedouins andother nationalities. "We havewomen of 14 different nationalitiesmarried to Bedouinmen. Most of us speak anaverage of three languages, soit's easy to communicate withforeigners. Over years ofhosting tourists, our menhave found life-partners fromaround the world."

Home sweet home
Meet Marguerite VanGeldermalsen, a Kiwi whocame to Petra as a tourist in1978, while in her 20s. She fellin love with a charmingBeduion boy, Mohammed,whom she later married andstarted a family with.Marguerite became one ofthe tribe as she lived in thecaves, baked bread, fetchedwater, and ran the local clinic.

Mohammed passed away afew years ago, but she didn'tgo back to settle in NewZealand as she thinks ofPetra as home. Margueritesurprises when she says,"Even though I came fromthe west, I rarely missed thatway of life or the amenities itoffered. Today in our village, Ihave access to the latesttechnology, such as on demandtelevision or satellitedishes etc., but the truth is,many such advancements, Ihave little need of!"

Petra is the perfect way tosee the old remain intact evenas the new is embraced.

HT Image