Deepak Nirula, the man who introduced Delhi to American-style fast-food outlet

An important chapter in Delhi’s culinary history has come to an end with the death of Deepak Nirula who is credited with introducing an American-style fast-food outlet to Delhi. He died on October 4

NEW DELHI: There are businesses that become synonymous with a city’s identity. Nirula’s is one such brand. Started in 1934 by brothers Lakshmi Chand and Madan Gopal Nirula as a hotel and a restaurant in Connaught Place, Nirula’s became the country’s first home-grown fast-food chain loved for its pizzas, burgers, hot chocolate fudge, and ice creams in 21 flavours, years before McDonald’s opened its first outlet in Delhi.

Deepak Nirula, who ran Nirula’s before the family sold the business, introduced a new ambience, mechanised operations at Nirula’s outlets in Delhi. (HT File Photo)

With the passing of Deepak Nirula, who ran Nirula’s before the family sold the business, and is credited with introducing an American-style fast-food outlet to Delhi, an important chapter in the city’s culinary history has come to an end. He died on October 4.

“He had a keen interest in all aspects of the business, running all operations, including its commissary. He was very punctual and came to the office at 8am sharp,” said Amit Chadha, whose family bought the business from Malaysia-based private equity firm Navis Capital Partners in 2012, which in turn had bought the business from the Nirulas in 2006. Chadha’s father worked with Nirula’s before he started his own hospitality business. In 2018, BanyanTree Growth Capital, a PE fund, bought Nirula’s.

Pushpesh Pant, a food historian, says Nirula’s democratised eating out in the city.

“I first visited it in 1963 when I arrived in Delhi as an 18-year-old student. Those days it was a favourite hangout of the youngsters,” said Pant, whose book on Delhi’s food story will be published in January.

“The Nirula’s find a prominent place in it. They brought novelty, consistency, quality, affordability, and informality in terms of food and the eating-out experience it offered. Their mutton hamburger was simply unbeatable. In fact, it was a favourite outlet for American soldiers who were in Delhi during World War- II”.

Apart from Connaught Place, Nirula’s outlets at Chanakya Cinema Complex, Basant Lok market in Vasant Vihar, and Defence Colony were among the most popular.

Rajiv Goyal, a chef, and founder India Food Tourism Organisation, which promotes food tourism in India, said very few food businesses could beat Nirula’s marketing strategies.

“For many years they offered discounts to school students based on their marks. So, if you got 80% marks, you got an 80% discount. This is where students came to celebrate. Nirula’s has been an essential part of the growing up of generations of Delhiites”.

“Over the last 1 year, we have expanded our product range and introduced 51 flavours of ice creams, sorbets, slushies, summer coolers, brownies, cookies and doughnuts. We have also expanded our food menu and launched dimsums, rice bowls, biryanis and wraps apart from a range of bakery items made in our in-house French-style bakery using only butter,” said a spokesperson of BanyanTree Growth Capital. “ Our emphasis continues to remain on pure, natural, gourmet ingredients, processed by hand in small batches.”

(This article has been updated to accurately reflect the present ownership of Nirula's)