On the aged year’s last day, here’s a walking tour through Gurugram’s good old Sadar Bazar, with ‘stop-here’ recommendations for some of the market’s good old landmarks. These aged classics make one feel as cozy as purani jeans does to weary legs.
Start with Kaman Sarai. The Millennium City’s historic gateway stands close to the town’s picturesque bus stand. Built around 1825, it once housed a British-era police station. Graceful arches crown the long tunnel-like corridor, darkened and serene. The structure is speckled with many windows, one of which is blocked with bricks.
Carefully cross the chaotic New Railway Road (see photo) to Sadar Bazar proper. Walk past the imposing post office building, and stop at Sardar Jalebi, the mithai shop that only makes jalebis—very thin, extremely crisp. Founder Arjun Singh arrived in Gurugram as a Partition refugee from present-day Pakistan, and established the shop about 72 years ago. After his passing in 1994, his legacy is administered by his descendants, along with the shop’s long-time cooks.
The derelict remains of an old mansion stands just across the street from the jalebi shop. It lies deserted, except for squirrels and a few cats. The building’s roof is gone, along with the outer walls, exposing the interiors for all street walkers to gawk at. A staircase goes up to… perhaps to a room that no longer exists. There are also niches, the so-called taaks that have almost vanished from domestic architecture. Some portions of the edifice are of lakhori bricks, the building material of yesteryears mostly encountered in Old Delhi.
{{/usCountry}}The derelict remains of an old mansion stands just across the street from the jalebi shop. It lies deserted, except for squirrels and a few cats. The building’s roof is gone, along with the outer walls, exposing the interiors for all street walkers to gawk at. A staircase goes up to… perhaps to a room that no longer exists. There are also niches, the so-called taaks that have almost vanished from domestic architecture. Some portions of the edifice are of lakhori bricks, the building material of yesteryears mostly encountered in Old Delhi.
{{/usCountry}}Walk ahead along many pleasant distractions lining up both sides of the way, but make sure to stop by a gajak shop towards the end of the market road. During these wintertime days, the shop specialises in everything made of gur (jaggery) and til (seasame seed). Delicacies include til patti, mungphali patti, kaju gajak, khoya samosa, meetha hugga, cheeni khasta, gur bagga, gond dry fruit laddu, soan gajak, choora wale laddu, gulab gajak, roll gajak, til burfi, pheni gajak, kadaka, and gur khasta. Each dish purports to keep the body warm and well-cushioned from the cold weather.
End the excursion at Apna Bazar market complex, with a glass of delicious adrak chai made in a modest tea establishment on the first floor. Founder Manbir, an Uttarakhand native, started in the city as a medical clinic “compounder.” He serves the chai with small talk.
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