A Dubai designer might take her bow on the runway in a traditional dress covering all but her face — as Mariam Al Mazro did at the Dubai Fashion Fiesta 2009 — but the clothes created by young Muslim women are not necessarily coy.

Bisma Amhed of the label B’zma is a Pakistan-born designer based in Dubai. She began her show with an updated version of the kurta-salwar, the upper garment sleek and fitted and the trousers cropped at the calf. This stylish but still demure outfit gave way to the stunning and revealing sari dress, worn with a tube top.
Al Mazro, the woman behind the label Mimi, did some wonderful work with retro-flavoured graphic prints on dresses that did not shy away from showing a bare shoulder or ample cleavage.
Modern designs based on pleats and drapes were showcased by Arshy’s, by Arshia Khan from Abu Dhabi. Beautiful outfits in soft colours by Rabia Z covered the body but suggested a great deal. Not at all what you would call orthodox.
— SG
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