Her husband makes a very good version of chicken curry. “But we haven’t had it for a long time,” says Kamni, who only goes by her first name. Her reason is simple enough. “I no longer earn as much as I used to before the lockdown so we can’t afford maas-machhi.”

For 20 years, Kamni has been working as a housekeeper to scores of one-room pads in Hauz Khas Village, rented mostly by single people pursuing all sorts of
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