KOCHI It’s 2pm and Kaloor junction, in the heart of Kochi, is buzzing with vehicles. Barely 50m away from the busy traffic intersection, there is a whiteboard with two words on it, ubiquitous across Kerala. “Kallu”, it says in Malayalam, “toddy” in English. Inside the compound, under the shade of a tree and almost masked by the growth is the shop the board announces — nondescript, single-storeyed, with peeling thin white paint, and a dangerously loose asbestos roof.
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