Retinol is the vampire of skincare? Dermat shares if you should include it in your summer routine

Retinol is widely loved, but summer can flip your most trusted ingredient and worsen your skin. Know how to use it safely in summer season.

Retinol is one of the holy grails in skincare. It is touted as one of the most efficient ingredients for anti-ageing, loved because of its collagen boosting and fine line smoothing properties. This has made it a staple in many routines.

But the sweltering summer heat has a habit of giving reality checks, even to one of the MVPs of skincare. The summer season brings extreme weather conditions, from high temperatures to sticky humidity. Accordingly, skincare too needs to adapt to avoid potential breakouts or skin issues, even if it means taking a closer look at the efficiency of some of your most trusted ingredients, and in this case, retinol.

In an interview with HT Lifestyle, Dr Mili Sinha, Physician at La Clinique and Expert at Oteria, shared how retinol may not be as ideal this summer.

She said, “As a dermatologist, I say please remove. I always recommend being mindful when using retinol during the summer months. While retinol can work wonders on your skin, helping with exfoliation, texture, and overall glow, it can also make your skin more sensitive to the sun. UV rays can not only increase that sensitivity, but they can also diminish the effectiveness of retinol. That’s why many people hear the advice to use it with caution during summer. But here's the good news, you don’t have to stop using retinol just because the temperature rises. The key is to be smart about it.”

Dr Mili Sinha shared a detailed guide with us that covers all the basics of retinol use in summer skincare:

1. Only apply at night:

• Preferably, don’t start using retinol in peak summer months if you are a beginner
• Think of retinol as a vampire because it doesn’t play well with sunlight. During summer, UV rays can weaken their effectiveness and make your skin more prone to burns and irritation.
• Retinol should be applied only at night, as it increases your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, which can lead to sun damage and reduce its benefits.
• Since retinol is light-sensitive, exposure to UV rays can break it down, making it less potent when used during the day.

2. Prioritise sun protection:

Applying sunscreen is a no-brainer and the easiest hack to keep your skin protected.

• When you’re using retinol, sun protection becomes non-negotiable.
• This powerhouse ingredient can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so never skip sunscreen; aim for at least SPF 50, even on overcast days.
• Reapply every two hours, especially if you’re sweating or swimming, to keep your skin shielded from sunburn, irritation, and pigmentation.

3. Integrate retinol slowly and gently:

• Think of retinol as a new dance move for your skin. Take it slow and let your skin get into the rhythm.
• It can take a few weeks to adjust, and you might experience a little irritation along the way.
• If things get too intense, hit pause for a few applications, then ease back in at a gentler pace. By introducing retinol gradually, you’ll unlock its full glow potential while keeping your skin happy, healthy, and sun-ready all summer.

4. Be mindful of other ingredients:

Be careful with your skincare combinations.

• Retinol is a skincare powerhouse, but it can be a bit picky about its companions. Sun exposure can amplify its effects, making your skin more vulnerable to damage.
• Retinol accelerates skin cell turnover, your fresh, new skin is extra sensitive to the sun's harsh rays.
• So, keep your combos simple and stick to ingredients that play well with retinol. Avoid mixing it with powerful actives like AHAs, BHAs, or vitamin C, as they can heighten photosensitivity and leave your skin more prone to irritation.

5. Start on a low concentration:

• Retinol can be tricky any time of year if you overdo it by using it too frequently or in high concentrations. But during summer, when your skin is already more sensitive from sun exposure, strong doses of retinol can worsen irritation and lead to dry, patchy flare-ups.
• If you're new to retinol, it's best to start in the cooler months. However, if you're starting in summer, be extra cautious. Always ensure you're using sun protection and begin with lower concentrations every other day to help your skin adjust without irritation.

6. When going for sunny gateways:

Avoid retinol when going on trips.

• Press pause on retinol if you're heading to a hot, sun-soaked destination.
• To protect your skin from irritation and sun sensitivity, take a break from retinol about a week before your trip and throughout your holiday.
• Once you’re back, ease it back into your routine for a smoother, safer glow.

Note to readers: This article is for informational purposes only and not a substitute for professional medical advice. Always seek the advice of your doctor with any questions about a medical condition.