Winter reading retreats in the Himalayas

Here’s a carefully curated list of quiet homestays in the mountains where you can finally read all the books you’ve been meaning to

Though the first tendrils of spring seem poised to appear in the capital, it is still wintry hygge time in north India. What this calls for is a glass window overlooking the mountains in all their glory with a hot cuppa in one hand and a book from the TBR pile in the other. Here’s a carefully curated list of Himachali getaways that offer not only breathtaking views and a glimpse of Pahadi living but an honest escape with no distractions but nature:

The hush of the mountains in winter. (Shutterstock)

Araam has a cosy reading nook with glass windows offers a panoramic view of the Himachali village of Kut. (Courtesy Araam Homestays)

Araam HomestaysWe start our sojourn with a hidden homestay that’s a short drive from McLeod Ganj. What sets Araam apart is precisely what is signified by its name, that it is a rest house or as its founder Jaipreet Chandna shares with us: “It is a gentle invitation to make a conscious choice to put your rest first.” The retreat is within walking distance of a stream and various hiking trails and also has an in-house kitchen where they serve meals made from mostly organically sourced ingredients with a Pahadi touch. Apart from the rooms – which have names like Moksha, Ananda and Shanti – there is also a cosy reading nook with glass windows that offer a panoramic view of the Himachali village of Kut. In fact, there are books in almost every shared space of the retreat. The collection here has something for every kind of reader, from mindfulness and meditation books to biographies and a host of fiction titles. While I carried my own books, I was often tempted to pick up a novel from the ample shelves and dive right in. During my 10-day stay, I finished three books and wished I had brought more!

Pro tip: Stay in constant touch with the hosts to help navigate the trails Social media: @araamhomestays

Terra Poetica, which literally translates to ‘the poetry of Earth’, is an experiential, experimental cultural arena (Arvind Bandipally)

Terra PoeticaA personal favourite, I first heard about this space near Bir-Billing from fellow travellers and friends who all said it’s run by someone who loves literature. Bir has, of course, become somewhat synonymous with paragliding and is well known for its breathtaking sunsets and serene Tibetan Buddhist monasteries. However, barely a few kilometres away, is a cultural haven hidden away from the mainstream tourist traffic. This is the village of Gunehar. Located in this scenic village, Terra Poetica, which literally translates to ‘the poetry of Earth’, is an experiential, experimental cultural arena envisioned by Saumya Kulshreshtha. “Living sustainably and living poetically sort of coalesced in this space,” she said revealing that a largely female workforce built the place, and that the staff are currently all women too. A homestay catering to those who wish to be in tune with the rhythms of the natural world, it is also home to Saumya and a cat called Sardi (so named because she was rescued and brought in shivering during sardi or winter). A boutique homestay which is “an arena where women, their energy, their stories, their songs thrive”. The quietness and quaintness of the village is what first drew Kulshreshtha to Gunehar. What she, in turn, offers her guests is a “rustic grounding experience” which will ensure that those who visit Terra Poetica will “organically slow down”.

Pro tip: A 15-minute drive away, right next to the Bangoru waterfall, is ‘Her Cafe’. Everything on the menu at this establishment is made from locally procured ingredients. The Himachali Dham is a particular favourite. Social media: @terrapoeticabir

Prithviraj Kapoor and American architect Didi Contractor have appreciated the beauty of The Mirage. (Courtesy The Mirage)

The MirageSituated in Andretta, a beautiful artists’ village with the oldest modern pottery studio in India, this place genuinely took my breath away when I first visited. Manak Singh, the current custodian, shares its rich history. After Partition, he says, “The Mirage was allocated to Professor Jaya Dayal, who was Prithviraj Kapoor’s English and Theatre professor at Lahore University”, after which it became a second home for the actor himself. Mirage, which is made up of three mud houses that have been restored to match the traditional Himachali style was also, at one point, the residence of American architect Didi Contractor. The property has incredible views of the Dhauladhar mountain range and is a short walk away from the Andretta pottery studio and the Sobha Singh Art Gallery. Naturally, many Amrita Sher-Gil prints adorn the walls of The Mirage. From short hikes to curated art experiences at the pottery studio next door, this retreat offers something for every creatively inclined mind.

Pro tip: For the spiritual sojourners, the historic Shiva temple at Baijnath is a short drive away. Social media: @mirageandretta

Simar Bhasin is a literary critic and research scholar who lives in Delhi. Her essay ‘A Qissa of Resistance: Desire and Dissent in Selma Dabbagh’s Short Fiction’ was awarded ‘Highly Commended’ by the Wasafiri Essay Prize 2024.