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Zafar Mahal: Last Mughal emperor’s summer palace falls into ruin

Sep 20, 2023 06:20 PM IST

Zafar Mahal, an ASI-protected monument, was originally built by Akbar Shah II in 1820 and was expanded during Bahadur Shah Zafar’s reign

Once the summer palace of Bahadur Shah Zafar, the last Mughal emperor, Zafar Mahal in south Delhi’s Mehrauli is now a shadow of its glorious past. Though located only a few kilometres southwest of the Qutub Complex — a world heritage site — the palace, which is one of the last remnants of Mughal India’s architectural legacy in the Capital, is rapidly running to ruins.

Zafar Mahal in south Delhi’s Mehrauli. (Photo by Vipin Kumar/ Hindustan Times) PREMIUM
Zafar Mahal in south Delhi’s Mehrauli. (Photo by Vipin Kumar/ Hindustan Times)

Zafar Mahal, an Archaeological Survey of India (ASI)-protected monument, was originally built by Akbar Shah II in 1820. It was expanded during Bahadur Shah Zafar’s reign, with new structures including a gateway built under him.

Built using red sandstone and laid with marble, the gateway demonstrates features of the late Mughal architectural style with broad chajjas (balconies) and curved Bengali domes with alcoves on the inside. The main gateway is about 50 ft high and 12 ft wide, with a massive wooden door.

Zafar Mahal, an Archaeological Survey of India (ASI)-protected monument
Zafar Mahal, an Archaeological Survey of India (ASI)-protected monument

Maulvi Zafar Hasan, the ASI archaeologist who prepared the first list of monuments worthy of conservation in 1916, in his listing states that Bahadur Shah Zafar constructed the new gateway to facilitate the entrance of elephants.

A marble inscription at the entrance mentions its year of construction as 1264 in the Islamic calendar (1847-8 AD), along with an inscription that reads, “When this high gate was strongly built as desired, the heart gave the date of its construction. May the door of Zafar (victory) remain standing.”

The rich history of the palace, however, is under threat, with the monument falling into disrepair.

Over the years, huge sandstone slabs from the gateway have fallen off, while deep cracks run across its length. Several slabs from the ceiling of the gateway have also collapsed over time. Floral motifs on the marble portion of the gateway are broken in parts, while various parts of the gate have been vandalised with graffiti and other carvings. The interiors of the palace are a sorry sight, with plaster peeling off, broken ceilings, and caved-in stairs that have rendered some parts inaccessible.

Other monuments and places of significance inside the larger palace complex also display signs of damage and decline. These include a graveyard, where several members of the royal Mughal family, such as those of Aurangzeb’s son Bahadur Shah I and 15th emperor Alamgir II are entombed.

Praveen Singh, superintending archaeologist, ASI Delhi Circle, said he has taken serious note of the deteriorating condition of the complex and will look to repair it soon.

“I have asked the team to prepare an estimate and we will be directing necessary resources toward the monument. One estimate is in the works and others will be prepared. Serious efforts will be taken to fix the gaps,” said Singh.

Locating the structure can be a challenge for a first-time visitor — one must navigate through serpentine streets that lead up to the palace, which can only be spotted from close proximity. In the absence of signages, visitors end up relying on seeking directions from local residents, many of whom refer to Zafar Mahal as Sheesh Mahal, drawing from the belief that the structure used to once be adorned by mirrors.

It was originally built by Akbar Shah II in 1820
It was originally built by Akbar Shah II in 1820

However, local residents themselves rarely visit the complex — people who drink and gamble in the area keep the families away.

Surekha, who goes by one name, said the monument is overrun with these “anti-social elements”. “Drunkards and card players can be spotted on the premises on most days. Although guards are posted at the monument, they are not a deterrent against such people,” she said.

She said that despite falling under the ASI’s watch, the complex has no facilities for visitors. “The palace is a historical structure. It belonged to the country’s kings and should be maintained so that its historical legacy can be preserved for future generations,” she added.

Om Prakash, 76, who lives close to the monument, recalled that in the past, the palace would serve as the meeting point for local residents. “In 1948, when we moved to Mehrauli, we used to spend most of our time here. Our houses were small so we took shelter inside the palace. We cooked food and even slept here,” said Prakash.

“Over the years, portions of the monument collapsed but ASI did not pay serious attention. They undertook minor repairs once in a while, but they left major areas unattended. Stone slabs are missing at various places but they were never fixed,” said Prakash.

Jyoti Prakash, who has been living in the area for more than six decades, said, “When I moved to Mehrauli after my marriage, Zafar Mahal used to have a lively atmosphere. In those days, electricity was rare. We would nap inside the palace or in the courtyard to ward off the heat. We would chop vegetables or knit sweaters to pass time,” she said.

Anil Kumar, who grew up in Mehrauli, said the monument has seen better days, when it was even used as a location for a movie. “If the government were to spruce the palace up and promote it, more people would discover it. People should be given the incentive to visit it, otherwise it will be dead,” he said.

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