Delhiwale: All you need to know about Ramzan nights

Old Delhi’s Jama Masjid area is the perfect place to spend an indulgent evening during the holy month

We aren’t leaking any secret if we tell you to head to Old Delhi’s Jama Masjid area one of these Ramzan nights. We go there every year in the holy month of fasting. There is a familiarity, and yet, there is a thrill — as if we are experiencing this world for the first time.

Since the eateries remain open until the morning prayers, it’s best to get there only after midnight. (Mayank Austen Soofi)

Since the eateries remain open until the morning prayers, it’s best to get there only after midnight.

Kallan Sweets

Across the road from the Jama Masjid, Kallan Sweets was started in 1939 by Kallan Mian of Peshawar. People in the neighbourhood love its paneer jalebi. During Ramzan, however, we encourage you to feast on its super-thick pheeki jalebis made in pure desi ghee. If you want to pass off as an all-knowing local, go a step further and dunk thetwisty delicacy in a bowl of cold milk.

Kebab Street

We are wistfully told of a time when idle Old Delhiwallas sat on the stairs of the Jama Masjid and chatted over kebabs. The vendors stood at the

bottom of the stairs. These days the kebab sellers line up at Urdu Bazaar, which faces the mosque. Go to Nadeem Chicken Corner for fish fry, Lalu Kababee for tikka, Tajuddin’s stall for seekh kebab and mint chutney, and Ahmad Chicken Corner for roast murga. Make sure to watch the cooks in action -- their arms move so fast they are a blur.

Nawabuddin Khajoor Waale

This booth hoards a great variety of dates during the fasting season. We cannot get enough of harmuni. Imported from Iraq, this date variety is so soft and sweet that it is nicknamed gulab jamun.

Kamaal Sweet House You’ll find this small shop stacked with flaky khajlas, that colossal ghee-rich puffy bread that, we’re told, goes best with milk. Kamaal’s khajlas are preferred by the area’s “snobs” because it has its own bakery. Most other shops get their supply from east Delhi’s Seelampur.

Haji Tea Point

This tea house is much loved during Ramzan for its sevai and pheni. While sevai is roasted vermicelli, pheni is its deep-fried version. The shop serves both in bowls of milk.

Asghar Bakery You must have the coconut paratha here. Sweet and milky, it looks look like a huge bun and is a perfect accompaniment to chai.

Muhammed Imran’s Chai Stall

End the escapade in this quiet corner — yes it remains quiet even during Ramzan. Imran’s tea stall stands alone on the other side of Jama Masjid (gate no 2). The chai itself is not extraordinary and we are not asking you to go there for its over-sweet brew. Instead, just sit on the wooden bench and soak in the atmosphere after the noise and lights of Old Delhi. There are barely any people

here at this hour. Jama Masjid look like a shadow, and Red Fort a shadow’s shadow. It’s a magical way to end a magical night.

GET THERE: Jama Masjid

Best Time: After midnight

Nearest Metro Station: Jama Masjid