The rise of the kimono style suit
Is kimono the new Le Smoking? One look at the last couple of runway seasons and it’s hard to overlook the resurgence of the suit-kimono hybrid. Splashed across the Spring Summer 19 runways of Etro, Dolce & Gabbana, Margiela and Cerruti, the wrap-around style has emerged as the key trend. Think a pared-down, easy and languorous touch to the otherwise straitlaced menswear tailoring and you’ve pretty much nailed the look. We got in touch with menswear experts to decode the trend and how it’s finding resonance in the Indian sartorial space.
Lends shape to the body
What makes the kimono style unique is the fact that it could be interpreted in different ways - from fluid to structured styles. Stylist Divyak D’Souza hails the trend due to its form-flattering appeal. “The cinching at the waist gives a definitive shape to the body. Both men and women can pull off the kimono as a chic cover-up for a pool party or a beach outing. Anyone who likes the comfort and ease of a draped ensemble should warm up to this trend. Maharaja of Jaipur Padmanabh Singh’s Italian tailored kimono suit seen on the runway exemplifies the two very contrasting worlds coming together - Japanese savoir-faire and Italian tailoring. It looks dressy and masculine too, which makes it quite a democratic piece. Either leave it open like a slouchy layer or cinch it at the waist depending on your mood,” says Divyak.
Designer Hemant Sagar of label Lecoanet Hemant seconds that. “The structured blazer gets a makeover with this side knot style to break the monotony associated with this formal look. It’s lounge-wear made wearable at formal occasions and formal wear made accessible to the experimental millennial, who want to add sophistication to their wardrobes and still be able to stand out,” says Hemant.
A synonym for relaxed tailoring
The formal tailored menswear suits are predictable, whereas the hybrid tailored versions seen this season are more relaxed and comfortable as compared to the fitted suits. Designer Sayantan Sarkar opines, “The modern-day man is doesn’t shy away from androgynous fashion elements. The international fashion scenario has seen a visible movement towards the East since the last few years, and gradually, the oriental elements have made its niche in mainstream fashion. The waist wrap inspired from the Japanese kimono jackets, in a structured menswear silhouette gives a cinched waistline and contradicts the rigidity of the outfit, thereby creating a more fluid shape.”
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