The rise of the kimono style suit
Fashion trends 2019: One look at the last couple of runway seasons and it’s hard to overlook the resurgence of the suit-kimono hybrid.Updated: Jun 11, 2019 13:43 IST
Is kimono the new Le Smoking? One look at the last couple of runway seasons and it’s hard to overlook the resurgence of the suit-kimono hybrid. Splashed across the Spring Summer 19 runways of Etro, Dolce & Gabbana, Margiela and Cerruti, the wrap-around style has emerged as the key trend. Think a pared-down, easy and languorous touch to the otherwise straitlaced menswear tailoring and you’ve pretty much nailed the look. We got in touch with menswear experts to decode the trend and how it’s finding resonance in the Indian sartorial space.
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Happy Earth Day! The life of a garment doesn’t begin when it catches the first glare of the runway’s spotlight. It starts with the fibre, the materials and the various processes involved in its production. At #ETRO everyday is Earth Day during which we strive to make our garments in the most sustainable ways possible. The heart of the #EtroNaturaManifesta collection is an intricately researched assembly of materials: jute, the course, dust-coloured, fibre that fashions hessian bags, is spun tapestry-like alongside hemp into jacquard jackets, and raffia, created from the palm leaf, is artfully woven on heavy duty parkas and trim bomber jackets. #EarthDay #EtroSS19 #EtroMan
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A sneak-peek at @jgalliano thinking behind his first 'Artisanal' Men’s show: the new definitions of masculinity and femininity, his introduction of bias cut to menswear and the sensuality it brings to a tailored suit, and the current regeneration of menswear with new top designers at luxury houses. ‘The Memory of... With John Galliano’ full episode is available on ITunes and Spotify via the link in bio. #maisonmargiela #artisanal #artisanalartistry - Music arrangement by Jeremy Healy : Pinatas - Matthew Corbett, Mike Wilkie, Universal Production Music Tribal Tribulation - Benjamin Medcalf, Anger Music Library Fight Or Flight - Edwin Makromallis, Anger Music Library Cante Y Jaleo - Juan Luis Leprevost Artiach, Antonio Ramirez Pedraza, Universal Production Music
Lends shape to the body
What makes the kimono style unique is the fact that it could be interpreted in different ways - from fluid to structured styles. Stylist Divyak D’Souza hails the trend due to its form-flattering appeal. “The cinching at the waist gives a definitive shape to the body. Both men and women can pull off the kimono as a chic cover-up for a pool party or a beach outing. Anyone who likes the comfort and ease of a draped ensemble should warm up to this trend. Maharaja of Jaipur Padmanabh Singh’s Italian tailored kimono suit seen on the runway exemplifies the two very contrasting worlds coming together - Japanese savoir-faire and Italian tailoring. It looks dressy and masculine too, which makes it quite a democratic piece. Either leave it open like a slouchy layer or cinch it at the waist depending on your mood,” says Divyak.
Designer Hemant Sagar of label Lecoanet Hemant seconds that. “The structured blazer gets a makeover with this side knot style to break the monotony associated with this formal look. It’s lounge-wear made wearable at formal occasions and formal wear made accessible to the experimental millennial, who want to add sophistication to their wardrobes and still be able to stand out,” says Hemant.
A synonym for relaxed tailoring
The formal tailored menswear suits are predictable, whereas the hybrid tailored versions seen this season are more relaxed and comfortable as compared to the fitted suits. Designer Sayantan Sarkar opines, “The modern-day man is doesn’t shy away from androgynous fashion elements. The international fashion scenario has seen a visible movement towards the East since the last few years, and gradually, the oriental elements have made its niche in mainstream fashion. The waist wrap inspired from the Japanese kimono jackets, in a structured menswear silhouette gives a cinched waistline and contradicts the rigidity of the outfit, thereby creating a more fluid shape.”
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