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Culinary crossroad: A look at Indian restaurants featured on Asia's 51-100
We look at Indian restaurants that are reimagining traditional Indian cuisine and putting it on the global culinary map.
An ever-expanding smorgasbord of masala-packed superstars of Indian cuisine is emerging in newer ways on the global stage. Recently, the food guide Taste Atlas placed India at number 11 on the 100 Best Cuisines in the World list. During the 2023 Cannes Film Festival, millet thoran, Malvani-style sole fish, potato koshimbir, Bengali sandesh, Mysore pak and Kashmiri kahwa were served at the inaugural dinner. In anticipation of the list of Asia’s top 50 best restaurants, set to be announced later this month, we look at spaces in India and overseas, that have made it to the top 51-100.
The Bombay Canteen, Mumbai #70
A new entry on the list, The Bombay Canteen, located in Lower Parel, Mumbai, is helmed by chef Hussain Shahzad. “Indian cuisine, once confined by notions of authenticity, has transformed into something incredibly diverse and innovative. Contemporary Indian cuisine is enriched by technique and innovation and is now gaining the global recognition it deserves,” says Shahzad. The Bombay Canteen serves dishes that are fun, familiar and innovative, by reimagining traditional recipes using seasonal ingredients.
Dum Pukht, ITC Maurya, Delhi #87
Celebrating 35 years this year, Dum Pukht of ITC Maurya at Chanakyapuri in New Delhi means ‘breathe in’ and ‘to cook’, shares Master Chef Gulam M Qureshi, adding, “This technique allows the food to retain all its natural aroma as it infuses the fragrant flavours that distinguishes the “Dum Pukht” cuisine from the rest.” The only hotel brand to have been recognized in this list, Amaan Kidwai, Area Manager Luxury Hotels North and General Manager, says, “It is exciting as we celebrate 35 years of the iconic restaurant.” The menu is a presentation of aromas, flavours and textures from the Indian cuisine.
Ekaa, Mumbai #98
Chef Niyati Rao’s Ekaa in Mumbai’s Kala Ghoda serves dishes “using unexplored ingredients from India”. “I feel extremely proud to be representing my country, something I’ve always wanted to do. We do what we do as we believe in our work, but receiving worldwide recognition is a wonderful bonus,” she says, adding, “Indian food holds mystery even today. It is diverse and each dish is amazingly balanced yet complex.”
Americano, Mumbai, #61
Owned by husband-wife duo Chef Alex Sanchez and restaurateur Mallyeka Watsa, Americano in Mumbai is “honoured to be part of India’s restaurant community and to represent it on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list”, with a rank of #61. Credited with bringing the farm-to-table concept to the city, he serves food that isn’t stereotypical of just one cuisine. Explaining the inspiration behind the food served at his restaurant, he tells us, “The menu is broadly inspired by the food culture of Italy, without aiming to be traditional or staunchly authentic. Our food is approachable yet refined, with an emphasis on flavour and high-quality local ingredients.”
Comorin, Gurugram #79
Serving a mix of unusual food pairings and dishes that remind its patrons of home has worked for Comorin at Sector 43, Gurugram. “As opposed to many speciality restaurants, we mainly celebrate Indian comfort food — regional favourites along with some unique dishes, and to have it stand out is all the more gratifying. Comorin’s most famous dish is Champaran meat with the humble Sattu Parantha and ole ki chutney,” says restaurateur Rohit Khattar, Chairman, EHV International.
Gaa, Bangkok, #94
Ranked #94, chef Garima Arora’s Gaa in Bangkok serves Indian food with a Thai twist - using ingredients that are local to the South Asian country. Ask what gives Indian food its distinct character and flavour, and she believes that it is the marriage of spices and ingredients but also the traditional techniques that are inherently Indian.
Ms. Maria & Mr. Singh, Bangkok, #54
Helmed by Chef Gaggan Anand Ms. Maria & Mr. Singh in Bangkok is at #54, and is based on a “some-what fictional love affair between a Mexican girl, Ms. Maria and an Indian boy, Mr. Singh”. It serves a casual Indian-meets-Mexican cuisine.
