With the death of Tiramisu inventor, we look at Indian chefs putting their spin on this Italian dessert
With the recent death of the famed creator of the tiramisu, Roberto Linguanotto, here's an exploration on how Indian chefs have improvised on this dessert
On July 28, Roberto Linguanotto, the famed creator of the tiramisu died at the age of 81. His stroke of genius may have started as an accident, but there is no mistaking its popularity as it ranks #6 in the list of Top 100 Desserts in the World (according to Taste Atlas). Simply made by layering coffee-soaked savoiardi and a mascarpone cheese mixture with sugar, egg yolks and vanilla, it’s served with a generous dusting of cocoa powder.
There are countless variations as its simplicity has captured the palates of people the world over, like the viral tiramisu in Dubai. Costing a cool AED34, the tiramisu served at Public is trending on social media for all the right reasons. The standalone restaurant in Dubai Mall is situated at a vantage point right in front of the Burj Khalifa, which gives you a sight to behold as you indulge in a bowl of tiramisu that has just the right kick of coffee. Constructed in a deep oblong dish, waiters put on an intricate show as they serve you this layered sweet concoction and pour more coffee over it.
A scoop of food history
Roberto "Loli" Linguanotto is credited as the inventor of the Tiramisu, however, its origins are debated. It’s believed Roberto created this indulgence when he worked at Le Beccherie (in Treviso, Italy) and accidentally added mascarpone cheese to a bowl of sugar and eggs. But, his collaborator, Alba di Pillo-Campeol, wife of Ado, who owned the joint Linguanotto worked, says otherwise. Alba says she was inspired by a sweet breakfast her mother-in-law made for her in 1955. The dessert was added to the menu in 1972 and spread out around the world.
In India, chefs have taken it upon themselves to innovate, elevate and plate up their take on this delicious pick-me-up, which literally translates to Tiramisu. Here’s a look at some of the most interesting ones you can try:
Chef Pooja Dhingra, the founder of Le15 Patisserie has an entire Tiramisu-inspired menu and calls it “a timeless classic”. That it is a favourite dessert is just an added bonus. “We did a macaron, chocolate tiramisu cupcake and a tiramisu Tres leches. The response has been really positive and our customers loved this unique take yet familiar flavour,” she tells us. On the other hand, Chef Kunal Kapur gave it a desi twist by making a rasmalai tiramisu. “There are some similarities in both desserts as they are very soft and creamy. If you take out the kesar and rose water, while adding a shot of espresso or coffee liqueur, you will get quite an interesting dessert, which I quite liked,” he says.
‘Broken down into its elements’
At BaaMee in Mumbai, Saikot Chaki, menu curator and co-founder, has taken the dessert’s translation literally and created a pull-up tiramisu. “It’s a symphony of flavours and textures that embodies the essence of Italian indulgence. The interplay of bitter coffee and sweet, velvety cream creates a harmonious,” he shares. Calling it the “Queen of Desserts”, Chef Julia Desa, co-founder, Dos, Delhi, says, “Our restaurant and food is all about being fun, quirky and wholesome. We serve a boozy, pull-apart mango and coconut tiramisu. It features fresh Alphonso mango and coconut jelly, along with rum.”
At Fiori in Lonavala, head chef Gracian De Souza has reimagined the Italian favourite with an eggless cake instead of the ladyfinger biscuits. “We wanted to create an inclusive dessert that everyone could enjoy. Our version features layers of sponge cake soaked in coffee and Kahlua, with a rich mascarpone cheese filling. This delightful creation is then set, sliced, and served as a cake, accompanied by a delicious coffee sauce,” he explains.
At Tres in Delhi, Chef Jatin Mallick wanted to do something to complement the imaginative menu, that’s a mix of contemporary and elegant. He says, “We serve an artisanal take, where one gets the taste of the dessert that has been deconstructed into different elements. It consists of a vanilla bean mascarpone mousse, kahlua jelly, coffee ice cream and Belgium cocoa nib tuile.”
‘An exquisite Asian affair’
With coffee being a big part of Vietnamese culture, Chef Phankri Bey from Vietnom, Mumbai came up with their special Vietnamese Coffee Tiramisu Pot, which she describes as a “journey through time and taste”. At the heart of this dessert lies Caphe Da (Vietnamese iced coffee) with rich, bold flavours. The sweet dish is nestled inside a delicate pot made of chocolate that’s filled with layers of creamy Tiramisu. At Mumbai’s MOKAI, Matcha Misu plays a starring role on their menu. Founder Karreena Bulchandani explains the story: “Matcha Misu takes inspiration from our best sellers - blueberry iced matcha. The ceremonial grade matcha sourced from Japan is added to the dessert as well.”
Chef Raghav Lawrence at IDYLLL, Bengaluru, presents a Ghewar Tiramisu. The widely appreciated ghewar is the OG Rajasthani sweet. Usually served with almonds, pistachio, saffron and rabri, making for a decadent dessert, much like the Tiramisu and its subsequent Italian folklore. “Replacing the biscotti with the Ghewar is where the true magic happens. The honeycomb-like structure in the ghewar soaks up the Kahlua and is filled with mascarpone cheese and cream mixtures. It is garnished with rose petals, golden leaves and cocoa powder, our Tiramisu Ghewar truly embodies the essence of both these rich culinary classics,” he says.
‘Stepping away from the usual’
While some chefs don’t want to mess with the classic, there are a few who are truly breaking moulds and shattering expectations with their food. At Atelier V in Indore, Founder, Chef Vedant Newatia has created a Tiramisu Tart. It features a decadent chocolate sable base, layered with coffee-infused chocolate mousse, sponge finger soaked in coffee and marsala syrup and topped with a velvety mascarpone cream. “At Atelier V, we enjoy putting a modern spin on classic desserts and our Tiramisu Tart embodies this approach. We strive to balance tradition and innovation in every dish,” he says. Whereas Chef Sarfaraz Ahmed, Corporate Chef, Carnival by Tresind in Mumbai, has reimagined the classic Tiramisu into a deconstructed delight. “We've crafted a Tiramisu Panna Cotta, paired with Bailey’s ice cream, which is flash-frozen with liquid nitrogen for an added touch of drama. Complementing it is a coffee sponge cake and a rich coffee liqueur in Cremieux form. To top it all off, we add a Coffee Achappam for a satisfying crunch,” he shares.