Unveiling the legacy of Manish Malhotra: The man behind the Indian fashion force
From his early modelling days to redefining Bollywood costume design and now helming an iconic couture house, Manish Malhotra shares the method behind his magic
Having styled and designed for Bollywood muses spanning over a period of 35 years, Manish Malhotra is a treat to watch as we catch him behind the scenes at his Noida atelier. Ensuring no stone was left unturned, he was sketching and making final touches to his designs as he was running against time, ahead of his new collection showcase in Dubai, UAE.
Backing him was his entourage dressed in all black who make for his eponymous label. The sky truly is the limit for the couturier as he has now also ventured into the high jewellery, luxury makeup, and film production sectors. Here, we pick the brains of the man who launched the concept of runway showstoppers in India, made larger-than-life dressing for brides a dream come true, and dressed Bollywood across generations.
How has costume design for Bollywood evolved over the years?
The films I worked on in my early years played a crucial role in shaping the identity of costume design in Indian cinema. Movies such as Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (1995), Dil To Pagal Hai (1997), and Mohabbatein (2000) presented heroines in a strikingly glamorous way, setting trends that influenced how people perceived style. Even today, many brides-to-be reference these iconic looks when planning their wedding outfits. However, over time, the nature of glamour in cinema has transformed. The larger-than-life aesthetic of the past has made way for a more understated, refined style in today’s films.
In your more than three-decade-long career, is there anything you wish you'd done differently?
If there’s one thing I wish I had pursued, it would be studying business. I also didn’t formally study fashion either, my journey has been driven purely by passion and hands-on experience... So, I deeply relate to Quentin Tarantino’s words: “I didn’t go to film school. I went to films.”
What is it like designing for movie stars and their children?
It’s an incredible experience! This is my 35th year in the industry, and I’ve had the privilege of designing for legends such as the late Sridevi, and now, for Janhvi and Khushi (Kapoor). I’ve dressed Shah Rukh and Gauri Khan, as well as Saif Ali Khan, and today, I design for Suhana (Khan) and Sara (Ali Khan). From Raveena Tandon to Rasha (Thadani), Kajol to Nysa (Devgn), and Bhavana to Ananya Panday, these remarkable women — mothers and daughters alike — feel like family to me. Someone once said my home is a place where you could see both Rekha ji and Ananya Panday, and I think that beautifully captures my journey.
What has been your most memorable Indian fashion moment?
Anant and Radhika Ambani’s wedding celebrations were a landmark moment for Indian fashion. As the creative director for the festivities, I'd the privilege of curating events (brought to life by Nita Mukesh Ambani’s impeccable vision) and designing ensembles that celebrated India’s rich craftsmanship, artistry and heritage. It was extraordinary to see Indian fashion embraced on a global stage, with icons like Ivanka Trump (US President Donald Trump’s daughter) in our lehenga and (reality TV stars and businesswomen) Kim and Khloé Kardashian in our sarees.
What is your favourite destination for design inspiration?
For me, inspiration isn’t tied to a specific place — it’s about the moment. Some of my most creative ideas emerge in the quiet of early mornings. There is something meditative about the world before it fully wakes up. I cherish my morning routines, whether it’s walking through the serene paths of Hyde Park in London, soaking in the stillness of my hotel in LA, or simply gazing at the view from my terrace at home.
How do you design new collections to stay ahead of the curve?
When designing new collections, I focus on striking a balance between tradition and innovation. While I may not lean heavily into experimentation, I prefer to play it more conventionally, ensuring that the designs stay accessible and in tune with the evolving needs of our audience. As our business has expanded, the focus has shifted toward catering to what’s expected, maintaining a sense of familiarity while also pushing boundaries within that framework. This allows me to stay ahead of the curve by evolving with the market, while remaining grounded in the values that have defined our brand. It's about respecting the heritage of what we do, but also being mindful of the changing landscape and customer desires.
Since you pioneered the concept of actors as showstoppers at fashion shows, do you think it’s time to reimagine it?
The concept has evolved beautifully over time, and I don’t think it needs a complete reinvention. Having actors on the runway creates a unique synergy between fashion and cinema that captivates audiences. While I was the first to introduce this idea — along with trends like front-row film stars and sequin sarees — it’s important to recognise when a trend starts losing its novelty. The key is to innovate, redefine, and keep the runway fresh and exciting.
How would you describe your work culture?
Our work culture thrives on collaboration, creativity, and a drive for innovation. We believe that every team member’s idea, and unique viewpoint contribute to shaping our collective vision. Each person’s expertise is not only respected but celebrated, as we recognise the diversity of skills and perspectives. I encourage an open structure where I like to interact with everyone. I often call a meeting with only the interns and am keen to listen to their viewpoints on the collection they are working on, on the current trends, and on their ideas. It’s very important to hear every voice out as you may never know where inspiration can strike from. This creates a dynamic environment where both individual talent and teamwork seamlessly coexist, pushing us to continuously evolve and reach new heights as a brand.
What’s one thing that has remained unchanged in fashion shows over the years?
The energy and excitement backstage — it’s truly timeless. No matter how many shows I’ve been a part of, the rush of creativity, the organised chaos, and the anticipation before the final reveal always feel just as exhilarating. That collective buzz, the meticulous attention to detail, and the magic of bringing a vision to life — those moments never lose their charm.
What is something people don’t know about you?
Most people don’t realise how private I truly am. I value my quiet spaces and prefer keeping my personal life away from the limelight. I’ve always been more of an observer and listener — qualities that have served me well in an industry that thrives on personalities and stories. Even while working closely with actors, I’ve never felt the need to pry into their personal lives, respecting their boundaries as much as I cherish my own.
Creative Director: Akshay Kaushal
Photographer: Irbaaz Ali
Makeup: Ashima Kapoor
Hair: Lawang Tamang
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