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Inside Varanasi's legendary Mahashivaratri celebrations
Chants, crowds and the sacred riverfront - Varanasi on Mahashivaratri night has always been a sight to behold
The night of Lord Shiva and Devi Parvati's marriage - essentially signifying the sacred union of Shiva and Shakti is what encapsulates the history and spiritual milestone of Mahashivaratri every year. This year, the auspicious occasion will be celebrated on February 15 with the almost-hour between 12.09AM and 1.01AM (on February 16) being of utmost importance. Now while homes across the country will be partaking in rituals to honour the mythic tithi, the city of Varanasi, often touted as the city of Lord Shiva, has had a heartening history of brimming with devotion and sacred revelry during this time.
Mahashivaratri is synonymous with Varanasi
More than a million residents and pilgrims, coupled with tourists flocking in from places near and far, come together each year to celebrate the festival with swaying enthusiasm and devotion. Key processions include one from Tilbhandeshwar Temple, which starts at Harishchandra Ghat around 2PM, moves to Derhsi Pul, and returns to the temple, and another from Mrityunjay Mahadev Temple that passes through Lahurabeer and Maldahiya before ending at Derhsi Pul. Near Kedar Temple, large effigies of Shiva, Parvati, and her attendants are worshipped, and the Tilbhandeshwar procession pauses for a brief sword-fighting display.
Mustn't miss
And you won't, because the every living and inanimate atom in Varanasi is completely wrapped in honouring the very same sentiment. A major highlight is the Shiv Baraat, the ceremonial wedding procession of Lord Shiva. Several such processions take place across Varanasi, drawing large crowds. A participant dressed as Shiva leads each baraat, joined by tableaux of deities, mythological scenes, animals, and performers, with occasional appearances by Naga sannyasis. Swordsmen, bands, drums, and costumed revelers add to the spectacle, while locals line the route with offerings and greetings.
The Panchakroshi Parikrama
As night falls, hundreds of thousands of barefoot pilgrims begin the Panchkroshi Parikrama, a ritual circumambulation across ancient and modern Varanasi. Chanting 'Har Har Bam Bam', they move between designated temples, stopping briefly at stalls for sustenance. This fixed temple route is as a matter of fact, something that has helped preserve these historic sites for centuries.
Divine treats
Across the city, stalls sell thandai and cannabis-infused sweets, along with fasting foods made without cereals. Popular items include anardana made from water chestnut flour, spicy potato kachalu with dried mango powder, sweets from cashews, almonds and milk solids, along with paneer-based fried or steamed snacks. Many dishes use buckwheat, water chestnut flour, brown-beard rice, peanuts, and curd, making for an overall delicious spiritual affair.
Timings
As per the Drik Panchang, the Nishita Kaal Puja timing lasts for 51 minutes in the first hour of February 16. Similarly, the Shivaratri Parana time, again on Febraury 16, is between 6.59AM to 3.24PM - this time is to be used to break fasts for those observing one. Additionally, the Chaturdashi tithi for the occasion begins at 5.04PM on February 15, concluding on 5.34PM the next day.
Will you be visiting Varanasi this Mahashivaratri?
