Cigarette Baba?s legacy

?Bow your head before a stone, and it will become a deity.? We've heard that often enough and it applies so very aptly to a British soldier's grave in Lucknow! Local residents have accorded him the status of a 'saint'. Not only do they bow their head before his grave but even offer cigarettes!

‘Bow your head before a stone, and it will become a deity.’ We've heard that often enough and it applies so very aptly to a British soldier's grave in Lucknow! Local residents have accorded him the status of a 'saint'. Not only do they bow their head before his grave but even offer cigarettes!

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Captan F. Wale is buried in the Musa Bagh cemetery. He was a British officer who raised and commanded the first Sikh irregular cavalry. He has been rechristened and is respected by locals as 'Kaptan Shah Baba'. People throng his grave in large numbers and offer cigarettes at his grave. Ram Awadh, a local resident says, "Baba used to smoke so we offer him cigarettes." Another devotee Sonali Singh adds, "When your wish is fulfilled then you have to complete the formality of offering cigarettes". Some devotees even admitted of offering meat and wine. Hardly anyone has a convincing reason for this tradition.

Though they admit that this is the grave of a Britisher, but they've made him a ‘saint’. Musa Bagh has the remains of what was once the retreat of the Nawabs.

Huge gardens laid by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah existed in this area located near Hardoi Road. Legend has it that the Nawab killed a rat (mushik) here hence the name. Some also believe it took its name from a French word 'Monsieur' during Lord Martin's period. This place served as a place for relaxation for the Nawabs.

Later, during the Freedom Struggle in 1857 it was the stronghold of the Oudh forces. Now, only ruins of the building remain with few underground rooms and broken walls. Here on March 21, 1858, a fierce battle was fought between the British and native forces. The battle was, eventually, won by Britishers.

According to historian Roshan Taqui, Awadh forces were led by Maulvi Ahmed Ullah Shah, a revolutionary leader. In the battle, Captain Wale was killed. His friend Captain LB Jones, Acting Commandant of the 1st Sikh Irregular Cavalry, erected his grave in the campus. The grave is still there and famous now… for the unique reason. Ironically, the epitaph at the grave too, clarifies that the British officer lived and died like a true Christian soldier, but none want to do away with the 'Kaptan Shah Baba' tale!