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Write your own wows: Runway trends that will rock shaadi season
Designers pick the best trends from couture shows that work perfectly for the bride, wedding party or the reception guest
The bride is wearing sneakers under her lehenga. Grooms are going heavy on the embroidery. Guests are turning out in black, feathers and lace. Seasonal trends have been sneaking into wedding wardrobes all year. The Fashion Design Council of India’s Hyundai India Couture Week 2023 has just wrapped up. Everyone’s talking about the second season of Made in Heaven on Amazon Prime Video. There’s plenty of wedding couture inspiration floating around. Three of India’s top couturiers highlight the top wedding trends for 2023.
JJ Valaya: Classics get a modern twist
“Tradition never dies, it merely evolves,” says JJ Valaya, the creative director of his eponymous label and JJV Kapurthala. He’s been in the business for over 30 years; he would certainly know. “An Indian Hindu wedding consists of celebrations over a week or 10 days. So, on the main wedding day, tradition may play a big role, but people like to experiment on the cocktail night or other functions.”
He predicts that brides will continue to pick intricately crafted lehengas, in celebratory reds, pinks, oranges and the like for the central event. The season will see tiny, fitted cholis paired with voluminous hand-embroidered skirts and heavy dupattas. Close relations and friends of the bride may experiment with saris, suits, fusion pieces such as pre-stitched saree gowns and shararas. “The silhouettes may change but what is likely to stay common to bridal and wedding outfits is that they are all handcrafted to perfection,” he says.
Rahul Mishra: It’s couture but it’s light and breezy
Finally, some wiggle room! Weighted finery and restrictive outfits are making way for wearable, breezy wedding couture. Skirts and lehengas can be worn straight, the fishtail skirt doesn’t need can-can lining. Comfy shoes are all right. Even lightweight jewellery is trending. Championing this style is Rahul Mishra, whose sheer fabrics and lightweight embroidery have shone on Paris runways, red carpets and at big-ticket Indian weddings this year.
“Our brand has become synonymous with weightless couture,” Mishra says. “We have always created clothes that have intricate and maximalist surfaces, but are effortless and comfortable to wear.” For this season, he points to his classic voluminous sleeves that resemble delicate petals, or his petal dress that gracefully envelops the wearer. “These styles are paired with and are showcased alongside the classic sari, or a lehenga to match the way our consumer is wearing the clothes.”
Varun Bahl: Keep luxury quiet and understated
Flashy bridezillas are giving way to understated elegance or quiet luxury this season. The bling budget is being diverted towards well-fitted cuts and higher quality fabric and craftsmanship. For brides and guests who want to rewear their outfits or pass them down as heirlooms, this is great news.
Varun Bahl, best known for his intricate, nature-inspired couture says that much of the change has been driven by brides. “It’s about making personal choices and embracing couture options,” he says. “The focus has shifted towards finding a balance between something new, modern, and keeping up with trends.”
This means ensembles that balance fitted bodices with voluminous and innovative bottoms. Whites and ivories have been trending after Alia Bhatt’s iconic wedding ensemble last year, but Bahl says there will be a shift in the palette for the upcoming wedding season. “I predict the use of bright colours such as shades of moss green, petal pinks, lavender, vivid fuchsia, ambers, vermilion red, and sea foam blue,” he says. “The silhouettes will be young and playful and artisanal embroideries will bring a fresh and contemporary feel to the designs.”
