Secret Traveller by Jamal Shaikh: The rhythms of the light

The most fascinating part of life in Rovaniemi, Finland is the phenomenon of 24 hours of daylight during summer months

Would you judge me if I told you I didn’t find the Northern Lights to be as magical a sight as I’d imagined them to be? Would you think I’m crazy if I said I enjoyed the museum in Rovaniemi a little more, where we were told about the 92 days of continuous day and night city experiences? And while we were spotting the bursts of green light in the sky, would you think I was mad to look at the other side of the horizon, fascinated by the magic of the moon that rose low on the horizon, and just an hour later, was ready to set a short distance away on the same side of the sky?

The Northern Lights illuminate the sky above the Arktikum, a science centre and museum where you can explore Finnish nature, culture and history

Before you give me an answer, read this.

We are 16 people in a long row-boat on a calm lake on the outskirts of Rovaniemi, a town in Northern Finland just six kms south of the Arctic Circle. It is about 10 pm, and we are participating in an activity a vast majority of the visitors to this part of the world come for: spotting the Northern Lights.

The catch: not everyone sees them.

Northern Lights are called ‘Revontulet,’ which means ‘fox fires,’ inspired by the Finnish myth that the lights were made by a fox’s tail spraying snow into the sky

The specks of light that appear magically in the night sky have fascinated people from all over the world forever. The science behind it, we are told, is simple: particles hurled into space by the sun and elsewhere don’t hit the earth because our atmosphere deflects their path. They bounce off. But a few of them manage to get into the holes on the northern and southern parts of the atmospheric covering. These are right around the poles of the earth; hence, people travel to the North Pole to see these.

Activities in these regions are built around “The Lights.” Tourist operators can never guarantee a spotting, but they know the general seasons, can study weather patterns and predict the times of the day “The Lights” should be visible. We went rowing, but other activities include night picnics, floating on a lake, or even trekking as you try to spot the phenomenon. Even if you don’t see them, you’ve had an experience that makes your visit worth it, a guide explained.

Fun in the sun and snow

The city of Rovaniemi is one of the Southern-most cities in Lapland, with a population of about 64,000 people—more people would fit into one office tower in Gurugram! It’s a sleepy town with hotels for all budgets.

Instagram stories have popularised the igloo hotels, which have a glass ceiling pointing to a bright blue sky and breathtaking views of the snowy landscapes if you’re there in winter. Needless to say, these are also the most expensive.

Sledding with huskies or dogs is yet another Instagram Reels-worthy activity to sign up for.

The highlight of my trip, however, is the Arkiktum, a museum and science centre located in the middle of the town. It showcases the culture of people from the Laplands and turns a bit of a spotlight on global warming and how polar bears have fewer and fewer ice islands left to stay on.

Modern igloo hotels are popular, but expensive, though guests arrive from all over the world for the unique views of the Northern Lights they present

The bits of information most fascinating to me, however, make me wonder why museums and science do not go hand-in-hand more often.

A simple model of the earth and the sun, quite similar to what we’d see in a planetarium, showcases the day and night scenario in Rovaniemi. And my questions are endless.

How do you sleep and wake up when the sun’s out 24 hours a day? Heavy drapes? And… how do you go to work at 8 am when it’s still pitch dark? Are car headlights on all day and all night? What effect does this have on a person’s mental health?

The Dutch guide, one of many citizens of Netherlands working here, smiles and proffers some answers. But the real answers, I know, will come only when I go back and experience all-day sunlight and all-day dark skies for a week each time.

When in Finland, sign up to go sledding with huskies, like these elves who work at the Santa Claus Office

Two repeat trips coming up soon!

When Santa got the blues

Google Rovaniemi and the results will throw up more than just the Northern Lights. The most special part of this little Finnish town is that it is the official home to the “forever fantasy” of every adult and child alike: Santa Claus!

If anyone posts a letter to Father Christmas, or Santa in short, post offices around the world are instructed to deliver it to Santa Claus Village, Rovaniemi. Here, these letters are sorted and kept on display to show visitors how people across cultures, religions and nationalities believe in Santa. A huge number of these letters are replied to as well, one of Santa’s little helpers tells us.

The Santa Claus Village in Rovaniemi stays open all year and offers visitors the chance to meet Santa and his elves

The red and green-coloured village seems to live the Christmas spirit all year round. A line runs through the centre as one part of it is in the Arctic Circle, and another part is not.

Walking amongst the reindeer is a fun thing to do here, even though red-nosed Rudolf is notorious for being out of sight.

The gift shop allows you to send postcards to anywhere in the world for as little as a Euro apiece, and you can choose whether you want them delivered now, or at Christmas.

Santa Claus visited Mumbai last week, as seen here (above) disembarking the Finnair Mumbai flight at Mumbai airport, which has been Santa’s official airline since 1983

The most important thing to do here is to visit Santa Claus at home, of course. Depending on how well you time it, the wait can be short and fun. A brief tour of the home with one of the elves later, you will be granted an audience with the man himself.

In person, Santa appears bigger than the ones you’ve seen in malls and at parties. His beard resembles the trail of a ballroom gown. His skin is pale, his smile is warm, and his eyes are ever-knowing. Talking to him can turn you into a child in a second.

Mobile phones must be left outside for this part of the activity; Santa’s little helper films a short video for you.

How do you know who’s been naughty, who’s been nice, one person asks Santa. How did you survie Covid, another says. And, have you been to India?

Walking among reindeer is a fun activity

“Everyone naughty sometimes, and everybody is nice,” says Santa Claus. “Today is the first day I’m sitting with my visitors without a glass in between. And, of course I’ve been to India.”

Have you then eaten Indian food, I ask my question. And Santa, what’s your favourite Indian dish?

For the first time since we arrive three-and-a-half minutes ago, Santa Claus seems stumped. He mumbles a happy answer, but everyone is now convinced: not loving The Lights and leaving Santa at a loss for words makes me less of a Secret Traveller and more of an unconventional one instead!

Follow @JamalShaikh on Instagram and Twitter

From HT Brunch, December 24, 2022

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