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Men’s style and grooming by Yatan Ahluwalia: How to manage the clean look in 2020
The definitive guide on shaving and managing your facial hair this year
It’s 2020 and majority of men now prefer to sport the clean-cut look – it’s the universal ‘corporate grooming standard’ and the strongest grooming trend for the year. A rough estimate says almost 74 per cent men shave daily, while only 26 per cent prefer to maintain well-defined shadow stubbles, moustaches or beards.
Here’s how to get the wet out of shower clean shaved look.
The morning routine
Before you start your day:
1. Have a good long shower: Use a shower gel and face wash and avoid using soaps, which tend to dry your skin out. Always shave after a shower, to ensure your skin is smooth and hydrated. Use a new blade for a close and clean shave. If you yet sport a beard, trim and shape as necessary. Make that extra effort to look neat and presentable. Use an after-shave balm or day moisturiser before you get dressed.
2. Make the effort to style your hair: Remember you don’t need to make a fashion statement everyday, so choose a style that’s not too dramatic but yet makes you stand out in the crowd. Your hairstyle should accentuate your look and reflect your personality.
3. Smelling nice is just as important as looking good: Use a water based (and alcohol free) deodorant roll on under the arms, then generously spray a water based deodorant on the chest and back - directly in contact with the skin, but from a distance of about six inches. Allow this to get absorbed, before you start getting dressed and ready.
4. Finish the morning grooming routine with a nice long lasting, but not too heady fragrance: This should be applied sparingly on the wrists and the Adams apple on your neck. Anything extra will not get absorbed and will only end up drying out and getting wasted.
Razors and blades
As each person’s hair growth pattern is distinctly different, always choose your blade or razor based on your individual needs. Never make your buying decision based on someone’s recommendation. You will need to try a variety of brands and blades – disposables, single, double or triple, until you find the right one for yourself.
*Always shave after your bath. The combination of body gel, soap, shampoo and water will make the hair softer and open up your pores resulting in a smoother and cleaner shave. It also prevents unnecessary nicks, cuts, abrasions and an after-shave irritation.
*At all costs, avoid a reverse shave. When you shave against the grain, the blade rakes across the skin and pulls the hair more harshly up and away from the face -- this leads to the likelihood of nicks, razor burn and ingrown hairs. Your razor is as personal as your toothbrush – for sake of hygiene and to prevent infections, never share it with anyone.
* A single use disposable blade should never be used twice. The primary disadvantages - lower quality shave, skin irritation or in-grown hairs afterwards. On the other hand, a double or triple blade can be used until you find it gets blunt or when it begins to pull your skin or skips areas it shouldn’t. Using an old or a blunt blade can also result in a rash, red patches or a painful razor burn.
*After care: When it’s not in use, never leave your razor wet or with hair on it. This can attract bacteria and lead to skin breakouts. Rinse your razor after each use and cover it once it’s completely dry.
Clippers, groomers and trimmers
You can choose from a variety of clippers and trimmers, most of which are both affordable and easily available. Choose a model that can be used to shave, shape, trim or remove your facial and body hair. As some variants are specifically for body hair and others for facial shaving, I strongly suggest you understand the products features, before you make your purchase. Pick one that meets your grooming needs and suits your requirements.
*Trimmers lead to fewer cuts in the skin, quicker shaving and do not need water supply. Experienced users, actually use their gadgets on the go, either on a long haul flight and some even in their cars - on the way to an important meeting! Most people also find they do not experience ingrown hairs or razor bumps, when using an electric or battery operated shaver.
*The drawback with some motorised shavers is that they don’t always cut the whiskers as close as wet shaving does and they require a source of electricity or batteries that need a charge.
*Before you use a motorised razor, your skin may need to be dry and preferably clean. Follow the manufacturers instructions. Set the blade to the kind of shave you need – there’s normally an option available. Based on the end result you want to achieve, choose between a direct, close or a further apart setting.
After care: Dust and brush the blade when you are done with it and keep it covered until the next use.
Before and after
Pre: Douse your face and neck with a water-based moisturiser before you sleep. Wake up with soft and well-nourished skin and be assured of a close and hassle free shave.
Post: If you have very dry skin, you may use a soothing after-shave balm, oil or water based moisturiser on the affected area. I don’t recommend after-shave lotions as their overuse can sometimes result in dark patches or in some cases, even sunburn.
The Old-fashioned shave: Old timers have good reason to recommend the use of alum to soothe and cool the shaved area and I endorse their suggestion. You may also apply aloe vera jelly, both as a skin conditioner and antiseptic - which is best when it’s derived fresh, from cutting the aloe vera leaf into two.
Creams, gels, soaps & foams
For a wet shave - lathering or lubricating agents such as cream, gel or foam should be used. Lubricating and moisturising the skin to be shaved ensures a smoother shave and helps prevent a razor or skin burn.
Squeeze out the required quantity from the can, tube or bottle and spread evenly on the target area. Allow the product a minute of rest before running your razor through it.
Using regular body soap is never recommended as they can leave your skin feeling both dry and flaky. You may however use an old fashioned shaving soap (or cream) and a classic shaving brush to work up a rich lather.
Nose and ears
It’s unsightly to see hair sticking out from the ears and nose. Use a facial hair scissor or a trimmer for removing the hair growth. Based on the amount of hair and how fast it grows back, you should do this at least once or twice a month.
Nose strips can be used to remove the hair that grows on the nose. You would need to use these, about once every ten days.
Tip: Avoid pulling the hair out with tweezers or your fingers – this can often result in unwanted pimples – that can be both long term and painful.
Cheeks
You must clean the hair that grows around the eyes and on the upper cheeks. The best, but somewhat sensitive way to remove the hair from your cheeks is to ask your barber to thread them when you go for your haircut. This can sometimes be a bit painful, though only for a few seconds (especially if you have a thick growth), but is well worth the effort.
Tip: Threading should be done by experienced hands and may need to be done twice a month, more if you are excessively hairy.
Author bio: The author is an image, style and grooming consultant and trainer.
From HT Brunch,January 5, 2020
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