Delhiwale: This way to Gali Paswan

Gali Charkhe Walan buzzes with chaos, while Gali Paswan offers serene silence and architectural beauty, highlighting a stark contrast in urban life.

From discordant sounds to pindrop silence. This transition unfolds suddenly, right at the instant when one steps into the gateway. The gateway is like a proverbial Lakshman Rekha, separating the chaotic Gali Charkhe Walan street from utterly peaceful Gali Paswan street.

A corner wall shows something unexpected—a marble tile is etched with the likeness of a man in western-style suit and bow tie. The underlying inscription identifies the figure as L. Darvari Lal. (HT)

This afternoon, the big noisy Gali Charkhe Walan is milling with humanity. The labourers are hobbling along carrying heavy loads on the head. Cotton candy hawker is overtaking the sweet potato-hawker. Battery rickshaw is racing past a scooterist. A couple of children in blue school uniform are walking hand-in-hand.

Then you turn into the narrow winding Gali Paswan. The universe here is… a void. Nobody is to be seen at this moment. Not even a rat—in fact, the street is completely free of litter, which is so unlike most Walled City streets. The gali moreover seems to be endowed with a rich legacy of architectural grace. The exteriors of many residences resemble the havelis of yesteryear. Not a single of these elegant buildings is looking rundown or derelict. No window is cobwebby. Although all doors in the lane are presently shut, each door is showing its own distinct personality. One otherwise ordinary metal door is decked with a peacock feather (see left photo). Another door is plastered with posters showing the gods. A particularly striking metal door with an arched doorway marks the end of this dead-end street. A brown dog is lying slumped outside the door. On seeing an unfamiliar face, the dog lifts the head, but is too lazy to yelp out even a friendly bark.

At long last, a door is sighted that isn’t shut, but slightly ajar. It opens into a temple. The interiors are enshrined with a series of sacred idols. A corner wall shows something unexpected—a marble tile is etched with the likeness of a man in western-style suit and bow tie. The underlying inscription identifies the figure as L. Darvari Lal (see right photo).

Suddenly, tap-tap of sandals outside in the street. Finally, a fellow human is sighted in Gali Paswan. A woman in silk sari is emerging out of a stately doorway. She quietly and slowly walks towards the mouth of the street, where it meets the chaotic Gali Charkhe Walan. There, the woman pauses. She tips her head outwards, looking about the traffic, and carefully steps into the world that exists outside the peaceful Gali Paswan.