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Raising the bar

Disappointing debutants, no emerging stars and stellar shows by the veterans of fashion. Jaydeep Ghosh and Kirti Mehta review both fashion weeks.

fashion and trends Updated: Oct 21, 2008 16:04 IST

Until the evening of Day 4 of the fashion week there was nothing to rave about. No head turners, no energy and even worse, no great designs. We did not expect much from the debutants but even the so-called ‘emerging designers’ didn’t make a mark.

The day started with Abdul Halder’s couture show, which was okay-ish and had overflowing gowns with ruffle detailing and satin pleats. Sonia Jetleey’s show is not even worth mentioning as it lacked any great design and finishing. Nida Mahmood pepped-up the show with her few funky garments but it still lacked great designs. Elisha Wadhwani had ensembles in yellow, beige, blue and pinks. The embellishments were very tacky and just when we thought it couldn’t get worse, Lalit Jalan’s show began showing menswear garments in candy pink with floral motifs.

After that the veterans held the fort and they truly raised the bar.

Payal Jain’s show had garments in whites and beiges in the first set, contrasting it with colorful embroidery on the garment. The second set was just the opposite; bright colourful clothes with stark white jackets and boleros.
Anita Dongre’s prêt collection comprised excellent choices in tie and dye effect for a summer wardrobe with ankle length dresses, shifts, dhoti pants and some see-through kurtas.

After a few unimpressive seasons, Vikram Phadnis’ Rajasthan flavoured collection was a pleasant surprise. Kutch style tunics in tie-dye and leheriya prints, brocade panels and borders, gold dori embroidery looked great.
Valaya Base by J J Valaya was a truly prêt show where every garment was practical and yet had intricate design sensibilities. Plenty of innovations, great colour combos added to this fine show.

Swapan & Seema were good in parts, like their sequence of silver dresses, the draped blouses for saris held together with clasps, belted gown and dresses. Their traditional garments could have been edited to fewer ensembles.
The day ended with a magnificent show by Rajesh Pratap Singh. The collection was all about sheer sensibilities, pleated textures innovatively juxtaposed and flawless construction.

First Published: Oct 21, 2008 15:58 IST