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Top couturiers ready to hit the runway in Delhi

Big on bridal, bigger on opulence, and grand in presentation — it’s time for couture to hit the Capital with the Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers India Couture Week 2014. Here’s a glimpse into what all to expect from our couturiers, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Arora and others.

fashion and trends Updated: Jul 14, 2014 20:03 IST
Snigdha Ahuja
Snigdha Ahuja
Hindustan Times
Manish Arora,Sabyasachi Mukherjee,Manish Malhotra

Big on bridal, bigger on opulence, and grand in presentation — it’s time for couture to hit the Capital. Shree Raj Mahal Jewellers India Couture Week 2014 in association with Logix Group and helmed by the Fashion Design Council of India starts today and will go on till July 20, at the Taj Palace hotel.

Apart from ramp shows, installations and celeb power, there’s also an outstation show by designer Anamika Khanna at the end of the month in Kolkata. Here’s a glimpse into what all to expect from our couturiers.

A creation from Sabyasachi’s previous show at the couture week (left); Arora’s design inspired by The Peacock Room

Sabyasachi Mukherjee

The couturier will open the fashion week. Known for his painstakingly intricate detailing and for being steeped in tradition, we’ll have to wait and watch to see if he creates the same vintage setting for his show this time, as in his previous two outings at the event. The designer tells us: "It’s all about trying to achieve the highest degree of perfection in craftsmanship, and it does not have to be a tangible inspiration. This year, the mood is about paradoxes: Disciple marries whimsy, romanticism has been steeped in reality."

Manish Arora
The king of kitsch will bring his Indian collection to the forefront with Kaleidoscope. The designer’s inspirations span time, space and place. From invoking traditional golds and the Japanese threadball craft of Temari, to three dimension designs inspired by the psychedelic vibe of The Peacock Room in Castello di Sammezzano in Tuscany — the mood seems to be as trippy as ever. The sketches give a glimpse of trademark-Manish Arora that includes a big riot of colours infused in the garments, along with accompanying signature accessories.

Manish Malhotra
The veteran designer will stage an elaborate show with reportedly over 50 ­models walking in his ­creations. “A traditional show in the language of today: the embroideries are Kashmiri which have taken four months to complete. The collection is influenced by old-world architectural charm — very 1950’s. Think Meena Kumari from Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam or Pakeezah. Jewelled colours in textured silks, tulles and velvets make up the collection, Portraits,” he tells us.
You’ll see old-world charm in the designs. Think Meena Kumari from Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam or Pakeezah

Meena Kumari inspires Manish Malhotra’s designs
Gold embroidery on the designs

Celebrating a decade of showing couture on the runway, Bahl’s designs this time will focus on re-constructing and revamping ­traditional garments, with his collection, India Moderne. As the name suggests, the designer seems to aim at rephrasing ethnic wear, as the anarkali and the sari get a makeover in the showcase along with signature floral motifs, layering and delicate powder hues.
It’s all about destination weddings. Monisha Jaising explores this cosmopolitan emotion in her collection called World Bride. "It’s created for the travelling bride, who could be taking her vows anywhere in the world; in a Brahma temple of Rajasthan, a church in Vienna or a mosque in Beirut and ­concludes the celebration on a yacht docked at the regatta on the bay of Saint Tropez," says the collection note.
She won accolades for her work in Ram-Leela, and as she readies herself for another Bhansali project, this time we’ll get to see a glimpse of Modi’s muse, Manikarnika. "It’s an exploration of the age-old craft and ancient techniques. The embroideries are derived from architecture, with the paintings of Ajanta-Ellora caves as perfect muses to the artwork and details," reveals the concept note.
Liquid golds, layered drapes and bold designs are his trademark, so it doesn’t come as a surprise that Gaurav’s showcase looks at Nyx, goddess of the night, and all who defy her, as inspiration. The collection includes sari and lehenga gowns that fuse traditional with the contemporary, fit for all functions around the wedding day.

Fashion previews
Designer Rina Dhaka’s fashion installation will see the revival of the art of gota patti. The designs are given a contemporary twist with the introduction of delicate lace and even Mughal animal paintings.
Veteran designer Rohit Bal will give us a glimpse of his ­collection, Nazar, with creations which play with ivories and golds. The collection seems to have a vintage vibe, with an infusion of regal embroidery.

First Published: Jul 14, 2014 19:37 IST