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Winter's new look

Fashion is supposed to grow up this winter and make-up is expected to follow suit. The new look will be unobtrusive during the day, glamorous by night - but always elegant and refined.

india Updated: Sep 04, 2006 16:50 IST

Fashion is supposed to grow up this winter and make-up is expected to follow suit. The new look will be unobtrusive during the day, glamorous by night - but always elegant and refined.

People are set to take a break from playful pastels and fill their palettes with dark berry and smokey shades, as well as chocolates and bronzes. At the same time, natural skin colours and soft browns will stay in vogue for everyday wear.

"Colours always get a little darker in the winter, warmer and more muted," says Werner Hariegel, head of the Federal Association of Perfumeries in Recklinghausen.

Just like fashion, there will be no one single make-up trend. But two things are becoming clear. Minimal make-up will be the rule during the daytime. But once night falls, women can be a little more forward and artistic.

"Sometimes it will be very basic, sometimes very glamorous," says Martina Acht, a hairdresser and make-up artist from Offenbach. That means eye shadows and gloss in skin tones for the demure daytime look, but strong colours for nights out. Lips will become redder and eyes will be accentuated with mascara or even false lashes and eyeliner.

Glamour, elegance and huge parties are the bywords for the new collections.

"Confidence and elegance are in demand again, which means lips and eyelashes are a woman's most important weapon this season," said Olivier Echaudemaison, artistic director of Guerlain Paris. But one needs to balance the eyes and mouth. That means muted eyes will often be matched with lips glistening with colour.

Yves Saint Laurent in Munich has the same idea. It's "Signes d'Orient" line combines red lips with dramatic purple shadow around the eyes. Violet shades ­ warm plum tones to lilacs to dark purple ­ are popular. The Dusseldorf-based make-up artist Charlotte Tilbury used Helena Rubinstein's latest "Party Chic" collection to come up with eyelids in white with dark plum tones.

Such jarring opposites around the eyes will be common in autumn and winter, even if they do require a little courage and deftness to wield all the brushes, powders and colours. Chanel in Hamburg is combining charcoal with bright pink tones.

In Dusseldorf, Lancome is shading eyelids in black and pink ­ or purple and white ­ as part of its "Luna Chic" line. Meanwhile, the German branch of Mac Cosmetics is turning to dark blues combined with shimmering copper and matted browns.

Acht also plans to make good use of charcoal in the upcoming season. But it won't be used to make narrow cat's eyes as it was in the past. "Eyes will now be made up to look round," she says.

Like the eyes, lips will be muted during the day but striking at night. Estee Lauder's German branch is coming out with a shimmering metallic, brownish-pink colour for the office and matte burgundy or iridescent bordeaux glosses for the evenings.

Such dramatic visages with framed eyes and striking lips can be a bit much or just too complicated for most women. But there's no need to fear, says Annette Kreuels of Lancome.

"Just take parts of your current look. At first try it only on the lips."

To maximise eyes and lips, a good foundation is essential. Refined, pale complexions are trendy now. Make-up artist Tom Pecheux named his colour palette for Japanese manufacturer Shiseido "Porcelain Sheen".

He uses an opal skin tone with a silky quality for the foundation before adding bright red for the lips and black for the eyelids.

Rouge is also important for Shiseido. Keeping some colour in the cheeks is important in the winter, especially in heavy shadows. Christian Dior Cosmetics in Dusseldorf has put out a "plush rouge in lively pink tones" for the cheeks.

But using rouge no longer means turning cheeks into apples says Werner Hariegel.

"Today's products are all much more user friendly than just a few years ago. Plus, women have learned how to use rouge properly," says Hariegel.

First Published: Aug 18, 2006 15:23 IST