A love letter to British youth

Over the last five decades, Pope Paul Smith has established a cathedral of chic dressing his legions of style savants - from Prime Ministers to Rock royalty

Over the last five decades, Pope Paul Smith has established a cathedral of chic dressing his legions of style savants - from Prime Ministers to Rock royalty. The likes of David Bowie, David Hockney and Jimmy Page among others have often warmed up to the individualistic exuberance of his designs. Reinventing his metier season after season, he’s stayed true to his core belief in dandyism and the transformative power of prints and tailoring techniques. The designer who wears suits day in and day out was provided with a unique moment of reflection last year with his landmark 50th anniversary celebrations followed by the imposed introspection of lockdown.

Models in the label’s Autumn Winter 21-22 collection (Photo: Instagram/PaulSmith)

Accessory details at the label’s Autumn Winter 21-22 outing (Photo: Instagram/PaulSmith)

Hence 2021 was all about hitting the reset button and remixing his cult classics. This vibrant outing had a strong nod to the swinging ‘70s with a push on tartan tailoring and tinted eyewear. Delicious tone on tone layering took precedence as he sent out snuggle-worthy wool coats and sheepskins. The highpoint was an of-the-moment reinterpretation of the donkey jacket in cheery orange reminiscent of the 1980s new wave romanticism. Striking a fine balance between street punk and stiff upper lip preppy were the mohair knits and subtle stripes. An array of comfy silk pajamas reflected the all-pervading WFH mood. Florals, a leitmotif in his oeuvre, was played out on intarsia knits, ties and a navy suit.

It was definitely a trip down the memory lane where he’s seen it all - from the mods to the new romantics.

manish.mishra1@hindustantimes.com