Lessons to borrow from Pitti street style

With the bi-annual menswear trade event around the corner, here’s decoding the overarching winter style.

Considering the second wave of COVID-19 outbreak in Italy, the Pitti Uomo (the bi-annual menswear trade show hosted in Florence), will now run from Feb 21 to 23 at the Fortezza da Basso and Stazione Leopolda locations. Usually the event which is the Mecca of menswear bespoke tailoring, fabrics, accessories and footwear is held mid January. What makes the trade fair’s winter session a compelling style study is to see an array of exhibitors, buyers, editors and photographers dressed to thrill in chic winter layering (which is often realised in bespoke tailoring and heritage fabrics). Leather gloves popping out of a houndstooth peacoat, a tweed beanie offset with a pair of wayfarer sunnies and a luxe knit jumper layered under a spiffy trench coat - it’s a war of the preening peacocks - who out-tuxes who! A wet dream for any street style photographer itching to freeze frames of his cool subjects - from a punk editor with a cool body art to a dandy exhibitor sporting a nifty trilby.

Winter layering at 97th edition of the bi-annual menswear trade show in Florence (Photo: Instagram/PittiUomo_official)

Chic winter layering seen at the 97th edition of the trade show in Florence (Photo: Instagram/PittiUomo_Official)

Sunil Sethi Chairman FDCI says that Indian men should stand out like a peacock and be proud of their plumes. “They shouldn’t worry about the fact if someone is being judgmental about their bold sartorial picks and that’s a significant take away from this trade event. For me, men’s fashion is not about aping a trend, it’s a lifestyle and the phrase ‘new normal’ should be best used in this context. There should be more Indian menswear designers, who should be able to influence others in terms of their personal style and also their holistic offerings - like adding suitable accessories to their full looks,” says Sethi, a dapper dresser himself with an incredible closet full of vintage finds and fresh off the runway pieces.

He adds, “Also, people here unfortunately put tags on different dressing styles - gay or straight. They need to understand that it’s about expressing your individuality and not about a community.”

A Pitti peacock accessorises his camel coat ensemble with a nifty fedora hat as he soaks in the Florentine sun. (Photo: Instagram/Pitti_Uomo)

Designer Jatin Malik who attended the event last year notes that the trade show has always been famed for putting contemporary menswear on a global platform while exemplifying the well-cut tailored suits, authentic Italian streetwear fashion in a diversified way. “I have always been fascinated by the bespoke well-cut tailored suits, from the 20s and 30s epoch. Italian streetwear and layering are synonymous with each other and the Florentine street style is a captivating combination of sophistication and nonchalance. Wearing an open collar shirt under a turtleneck in such a way that only a hint of the collar is visible, is one of the most enigmatic ways of layering seen in standard Italian looks,” says Jatin.

He observes that the shacket has made its presence felt in recent times at the event. “Originally known as bleu de travail, shacket has been a winter mainstay at the event. Moreover, accessories like a printed scarf, takes a monotone outfit a notch higher,” he adds.

Spiffy body art and natty accessories add a chic finish to bespoke tailoring. (Photo: Instagram/PittiUomo_official)

Stylist Akshay Tyagi observes that most Indian cities don’t really allow the luxury of layering but one element we could inculcate from the trade show is the idea of owning a look in totality. “Men in India are rather understated and have a comfort driven approach to dressing. Florence street style is a great study in terms of how you throw a woolen trench coat on your shoulders. In terms of facial grooming too, a lot could be derived from Italian men,” says Akshay.