Review: The Seaweed Revolution by Vincent Doumeizel
A deep dive into the marine world, this extensively-researched book lays out the potential of seaweed to save the planet
Japanese cuisine is one of the most diverse in the world and sushi or maki is now almost as popular as European bread or French fries. When one thinks of sushi, the mind inevitably goes to nori or seaweed. This combination of sticky rice and fish wrapped in a moss green leafy sheet is now consumed globally with much delight.
“Nori is one of the most protein-rich seaweeds and is a key nutrient in the daily Japanese diet,” writes Vincent Doumeizel in his book, The Seaweed Revolution: How Seaweed Has Shaped Our Past and Can Save Our Future. Tonnes of nori are produced annually, the profits of which are in billions, making it the most profitable aquaculture production worldwide.
Translated from the French into English by Charlotte Coombe, Doumeizel’s exploration of the world’s least tapped resource — seaweed — is deep and extensive. He believes that learning to grow seaweed sustainably could revolutionize the way we think and live.
From being a source of food to effectively becoming a replacement for plastic, from decarbonizing the economy to sustainably cooling the atmosphere, from rebuilding marine ecosystems to providing jobs to coastal populations, seaweed is an essential pillar of life on earth. Doumeizel also asserts that it is “the oldest and most experienced organism to survive on planet earth”, and goes on to explain, across nine chapters, its existence from historical times till the present day. To say that the potential uses and benefits of this hugely untapped natural marine algae are myriad, would be an understatement.
Seaweed first began being used as food 14,000 years ago inside the caves of Monte Verde in Chile. An archaeological excavation in 1976 discovered the presence of human life there along with 22 different types of seaweed that were “meticulously prepared, cut into small pieces, some of it chewed”, signalling its use as both food and medicine.
Apparently, all seaweed is edible though not all kinds have an appetizing flavour. They are filled with fibre, micronutrients and high amounts of vitamins like A, C and K, as well as iron, magnesium, phosphorus and zinc. And their benefits, Doumeizel writes, extend up to being a significant aide to digestion, blood circulation, and the strengthening of bones. He asserts, “it is so nutritionally dense that adding a few grams a day to our plates in the form of dried flakes can ensure some of our daily requirements of essential nutrients”.
From food, we take a trip to the pages of history. In 1811, during his mission to invade Russia, Napolean came up with the idea of using seaweed to make weapons. He asked Bernard Courtois — the famous French chemist credited with first isolating iodine from seaweed — to study the possibility of using seaweed to obtain potassium nitrate, the basic element of gunpowder. Courtois did not succeed at the task. However, he did come up with another significant discovery – the antiseptic tincture of iodine, which helped heal wounds and burns of millions of soldiers on the battlefields.
The book also touches on “cretinism”, a condition caused by the degeneration of the thyroid gland. Studies have shown that iodine deficiency is most prevalent in those living in mountainous areas such as the Himalayas, the European Alps, and the Andes. In the mountains, geology, torrential erosion, soil wash-off and steep slopes prevent iodine from staying put. Though the disease has been around since ancient times, it was only identified during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries when the failure to find a medicine or cure became apparent, thanks to a growing population of those suffering from goitre. A remedy was found at the beginning of the early twentieth century with the discovery of “marine iodine”. One of the rarest micronutrients on earth, iodine is found abundantly in seawater and especially in seaweed (kelp). It was eventually extracted from seaweed ash and distilled into smaller doses to be consumed as iodized salt.
Sea vegetables like wakame and nori are high in nutritional value and also have multiple beneficial anticancer, anti-inflammatory, antiviral, antibacterial and antifungal properties. The most consumed seaweeds in Japan and Korea, they have been proven to reduce the risk of breast, ovarian, lung and stomach cancer. “While one in eight women in the US is diagnosed with breast cancer in their lifetime, in Japan, it is one in 38. Most interestingly, this difference is almost non-existent for Japanese women, who live in the West and have adopted a local diet,” writes Doumeizel.
LISTEN MORE: Seaweed as humanity’s saviour - Interview with Vincent Doumeizel on the Books & Authors podcast
The production of seaweed in Asia has increased from 4 million tonnes in 1990 to almost 35 million tonnes today. It is surprising that this nutritious and abundant resource is actively cultivated only in Asia even though it has groundbreaking benefits and only requires salt water and a little sunlight to grow.
Doumeizel’s research into understanding this marine life resource from such a close lens is unparalleled and enlightening. It is also a plea for us to learn to build a connection with the ocean, which will eventually enable humanity, as a whole, to lead a more sustainable existence.
Arunima Mazumdar is an independent writer. She is @sermoninstone on Twitter and @sermonsinstone on Instagram.