Braj’s eternal Holi: Where colours dance for 40 days!
In Braj, Holi is a grand 40-day celebration, reaching its peak this week with the much-anticipated Lathmar Holi at Barsana and Nandgaon.
While the rest of the nation awaits Holi in mid-March, Braj—with Mathura at its epicentre—has already been immersed in the festival’s colours since Basant Panchami.
In Braj, Holi is a grand 40-day celebration, reaching its peak this week with the much-anticipated Lathmar Holi at Barsana and Nandgaon. Enthusiasm is soaring, especially with expectations of chief minister Yogi Adityanath’s visit to Mathura.
Holi – an extended affair
Each region has its own set of Holi practices, and for Braj region it is Laddu Mar Holi and Lathmar Holi. With the 40-day Holi celebrations beginning on Basant Panchami, all eyes are now on March 7, when Laddu Mar Holi will take place at the renowned Ladliji Temple (Radha Rani Temple) in Barsana, believed to be the birthplace of Radha Rani.
The Laddu Mar Holi tradition also includes an invitation to the people of Nandgaon (Krishna’s village) by Barsana residents, setting the stage for the Lathmar Holi on March 8 at Rangili Gali, in the shadow of the Radha Rani Temple. The next day, on March 9, Barsana Holi participants will head to Nandgaon for the continuation of Lathmar Holi.
Since assuming office in 2017, CM Yogi Adityanath has regularly participated in Braj’s Holi celebrations, except during the COVID-19 pandemic and election years. Speculation is high that he will visit Barsana for Laddu Mar Holi on March 7, a day before Lathmar Holi.
On March 10, the focus will shift to Sri Krishna Janmabhoomi, where Phoolon Ki Holi (Holi of Flowers) will be celebrated, adding to the temple’s spiritual significance.
On March 11, the festival moves to Raman Reti in Gokul and Dwarkadhish Temple, followed by Holi celebrations at the Banke Bihari Temple in Vrindavan on March 12. The narrow lanes of Vrindavan will be alive with Holi songs and colours.
By March 13, Mathura joins the rest of the nation for Holika Dahan, the symbolic burning of the Holika pyre, before India officially celebrates Holi on March 14.
However, in Mathura, the festivities don’t end there. The grand Huranga celebration at Dauji Temple in Baldev takes place on March 16, followed by Holi events at Nandgaon (March 16) and Jaav (March 17). The Charkula dance on March 18 and the Holi Mahotsav at Rangji Temple (March 22) mark the festival’s conclusion.
Charm of Lathmar Holi
During the initial days of Holi in Mathura, only dry colours (gulal) are used—no water—until Rangbharni Ekadashi, after which colours mixed with water are splashed on devotees in temples across Braj, especially in Mathura and Vrindavan.
“Such is the charm of Lathmar Holi at Barsana that British Collector F.S. Growse rode 40 kilometers on horseback just to witness the festival firsthand,” said Padma Shri awardee Mohan Swaroop Bhatia, a veteran of Braj literature.
“Known as Radha Rani’s birthplace, the small town of Barsana comes alive during Lathmar Holi. Women dressed in traditional attire wield sticks (lathis) and playfully strike the men from Nandgaon, who wear headgear to protect themselves. This mock battle, filled with Holi songs and colours, is a centuries-old tradition,” Bhatia added.
Holi for widows – changing times
Traditionally, widows in Vrindavan led a life devoid of colours and were excluded from Holi celebrations. However, in recent years, social reforms have allowed them to participate, marking a significant cultural shift. Today, Vrindavan’s widows celebrate Holi with as much enthusiasm as others.
Walking on fire – the fiery ritual at Falain
Among the many unique Holi traditions in Braj, the fire-walking ritual at Falain village (near Kosi Kalan, Mathura) is unique.
“This spectacular event recalls the legend of Prahlad, who emerged unscathed from the fire with Holika’s blessings—believed to be the origin of the festival’s name, ‘Holi’,” explained Bhatia.
In the early hours of Holi, a chosen panda (priest) takes a dip in the Prahlad Kund before walking barefoot across a bed of burning embers, reaffirming age-old faith and devotion.
Huranga at Dauji Temple
A defining feature of Braj Holi is the Huranga at Dauji Temple in Baldev, which takes place after the main Holi celebrations.
“Unlike anywhere else in India, here, women tear the clothes of men (Gops) and playfully beat them with the torn fabric, as coloured water is poured from above. The temple’s floors turn into a pond of tesu (yellow flower)-infused water, drenching the participants in a riot of yellow hues,” shared a Brajwasi.
Holi in Braj
