Delhiwale: Walking inside a kaleidoscope

A Walled City stroll that takes you through constantly changing scenes

One is not suggesting that a leisurely walk in the Walled City is comparable to chase scenes in, say, James Bond films.

A lane in Walled city. (HT Photo)

But there’s a similarity… up to a point. Every step along the Walled City’s narrow streets offers the thrill of constantly changing scenes—without involving a mad chase at all.

One such walk is extraordinary in its kaleidoscopic range.

Starting from the little-known Gali Gondni Wali near Kucha Chelan, you find that the lane is jam-packed with homes offering marvellously scenic doorways fitted with old-fashioned letter boxes, often punctuated by charming little groceries and paan stalls.

Just before the lane peters out, you’ll pass by an opening on the right that one might think is some kind of private corridor.

In fact, it’s a side-alley where the world suddenly turns quiet. Even though you might spot a shadow here and there: A woman with a begging bowl, that kid fooling around with his mobile.

The lane now ends at a cul-de-sac.

Turn right onto Gali Jagat Cinema street where you unexpectedly find yourself in a sort of courtyard walled in by
modern but very shabby apartments. This orderly space is so suddenly different from the otherwise zigzagging Old Delhi.

The courtyard narrows into a long and very bleak lane which abruptly ends at a busy thoroughfare. Nearby are the remnants of Jagat Cinema. There is no way of knowing if it ever hosted a Bond movie, but it is still famous for screening that great classic Mughal-e-Azam when it was first released in 1960.

While across the road is Jama Masjid Metro station where the trains can transport you to a more familiar world.