Warm up to single-breasted tailoring

This winter marks a return to trim silhouettes

While double-breasted tailoring dominated the last couple of seasons, seen in the form of suits, trench coats and peacoats, fashion’s collective wish to go back to New York minimalism echoed across the runways - seen at autumn winter collections of The Row, Marc Jacobs, Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga. At the outset, the trend made its presence felt at The Row and Marc Jacobs (the latter recreated it in the 1960s inspired style) during New York Fashion Week, and later Balenciaga at Paris Fashion Week showcased an array of trim and pared-back single-breasted suits. Think of 1990s New York and Hollywood films set in that era and images of Brad Pitt and Pierce Brosnan in baggy single breasted suits worn with roomy pants come to mind. Stylist Mohit Rai observes that 90s minimalism is a strong trend currently. “I see 2021 bringing in effortless styling into the signature 90s suits which were often paired with either T-shirts or turtlenecks. A sporty bralette works beautifully with a lean suit,” says he.  

A single breasted look from Marc Jcobs(Instagram)

Balenciaga (Instagram )

Stylist Divyak D’Souza cautions that merely wearing a single breasted suit reminiscent of Chandler Bing from Friends could be too costumey. “I’d suggest breaking the suit. Pick it from a palette of camel, navy blue or carbon black but wear it with separates like a pair of printed pants or a polo shirt. Finish it off with semi formal accessories. Given the direction where fashion is headed, it makes sense to invest in fabrics which are trans-seasonal. I’d also recommend looking at alternative handloom fabrics,” says Divyak.