The sparkling world of Gems

Diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires... Men have fought to posses them. And as long as this facination for jewels remains, gemmology will be a ?hot? career option.

Kings have coveted them, legends revolve around them. Epics like the film King Solomon's Mines have portrayed man's greed to possess them. Yes, we are talking about gemstones: emeralds, rubies, sapphires, diamonds…But have you ever stopped to think as to who identifies the gemstones and sets apart the glittering, less valuable ones from the really precious ones? As the coloured gem specialist and well-known jeweller, Ralph Esmerian said when he beheld the famous Australian pink diamonds, "A designer has ideas and makes sketches, then finds the gems. But a jeweller takes the opposite road. He buys the stones and then realises there is a jewel-- it arises from the gemstones."

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Today, we call him a gemmologist - someone who has undertaken a scientific study of precious and semi-precious gemstones including their origin, characteristics and distinguishing features. The word "gemmology" is derived from the Latin word gemma meaning "gem" and ology meaning logic. Gurmeet Singh, Director, Indian Institute of Gemmology, says, "It is an applied branch of science which deals with topics like how gems are recovered from the mines, how they are cut and polished, assorted, graded, and evaluated."

The study of gemmology is relevant to the trader, the dealer, the artisan or simply a layman who is fascinated by gemstones. From the point of view of the trade, gems and jewellery has been one of India's biggest foreign exchange earners. If the potential is tapped further then the earnings could skyrocket. Hence, it is imperative that the people associated with the trade receive full-fledged training so that they are able to carry out their work in a scientific and professional manner.

Gemmology is often mistaken for jewellery designing. K.K Sharma, Executive Director, Indian Diamond Institute (IDI), Surat, says, "Though Jewellery Designing and Gemmology are two different subjects, they are complementary. It is, therefore, advisable for a jewellery designer to have a profound knowledge of gemstones as they are always used in ornaments. If you do not have a sound knowledge of diamonds or of gemmology you cannot become a jewellery designer."

Echoes Singh, "Gemmology and Jewellery Designing are linked. If a designer has no knowledge of gems, he will not able to put a price to a jewellery piece. He can also embelish his designs by combining stones of various sizes, shapes and colours and this is only possible if he has an idea about gemmology."

Take the examples of Frederic Boucheron, the famous innovator in gem design and technology. Or of Charles Lewis Tiffany called the "King of Diamonds", who was known for his knowledge as well as design of diamond jewellery. Or of the jewellers and designers of the 20th century: Bulgari, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston — all of whom are household names today.

Courses on Offer
So if you want to join the big league, there are a number of courses on offer. IDI offers two courses — a regular one and a correspondence course. There is the Diploma in Gemmology (DG), which is a 16-week programme with a tuition fee of Rs. 15,000. A study of all the important gemstones are covered in this course.

Then there is the certificate course in gemstone identification, which includes the study and identification of stones that are important from the point of view of astrology. The duration is eight weeks and the fee is Rs 8000. IDI is the Allied Teaching Centre (ATC) of Gem.A, London, a gemmological association based in UK. On its behalf, IDI conducts exams for two internationally recognised diploma programmes: Fellow of Gemmological Association (FGA) (Gem. A) and Diamond Merchant of Gem. A (DGA). The Indian Institute of Gemmology (IIG), Delhi, offers a course in Gems and Gem Identification, which is of a three month duration and the course fees are Rs 12,500. There is another course on Diamonds and Diamond Grading, which is of a two month duration and the fees are Rs 12,500. The third course is an Advanced Gem Identification programme, a three month course which comes at Rs 15,000.

The recently launched Gemological Institute of America India in Mumbai is conducting a Graduate Diamond Diploma Programme that began on September 16 and will continue till November 5, 2004. The Graduate Gemmologist Programme will be conducted from mid-April, 2005.

The options
There are a number of career options for students of Gemmology. Deepak Bagai, Director, Indian branch, Gemological Institute of America (GIA), says, "The sky is the limit for students of Gemmology. It all depends on the individual's aptitude and preference." One can set up a business, be a consultant, a gem tester, appraiser, grader, cutter, jewellery designer or even a manufacturer."

Adds K.K.Sharma, "After completing a Diploma in Gemmology, you can be absorbed as a gemmologist with a jeweller or a gemstone trading company. You can also get a job abroad or work with a mining company. Or you can venture into the business of coloured stones, especially in the range of Navratnas, because they are in great demand." Other options include starting a gem-testing laboratory or practicinge gem therapy treatments.

The scope
Jewellers require trained personnel to identify, grade and evaluate gems and diamonds. Consumers want a certificate of authenticity when they make their purchases. The USA, Japan, Hong Kong, Belgium and other European countries are prime markets for Indian gems and jewellery. Many grading and certification laboratories have also come up.

In a nutshell, as long as man remains fascinated with gems, the profession has a bright future.