Bid adieu to skin woes with acids

If dry, dull and dehydrated skin is giving you sleepless nights, experts suggest some wonder elixirs that you can use to get glowing skin within no time

Acids are great for your face. Wait! What? You mean those chemical experiments bubbling in a cylindrical vessel are of some use too. Before you lose your sleep over it, do check out the anti-aging, anti-acne, or anti-dry-skin properties of these skin friendly acids. They work by helping you get new skin quicker through a process recommended by dermatologists. It’s no wonder that one trip to the dermat and you have almost a new skin which is shiny and bright, and looks better than your old skin. Salicylic acid, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, ascorbic acid and citric acid are some of these wonders or elixirs of life.

Bid adieu to skin woes with acids

For the uninitiated, acids are active ingredients in skin care that can lower the pH levels of the skin. Dr Sirisha Singh, Dermatologist, says, “The skin has a naturally acidic ph of 5.5 which needs to be maintained. The composition of the skin is such that the top few layers are dead, flat cells that make the skin look thick and change the manner in which light travels through the skin and thus gives the skin a dull appearance. When medical grade acids are used on the skin, they take away these dead layers of skin cells and thus help improve the tone and texture of the skin.”

All of us aspire to have less breakouts, smooth fine lines and an overall brightening effect, don’t we! To help those acid virgins get an idea, the most common acids are used as humectants - hyaluronic acid, which preserve moisture and exfoliants - glycolic, salicylic, and trichloroacetic acid, which remove the dead cells. AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, work on the surface of the skin, gently dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells so that they can be easily removed. Another batch is called BHAs, or beta hydroxy acids, which can penetrate beneath the skin’s surface, cleaning out excess sebum from the pores and reducing oiliness. Too complex to differentiate, but till the time you remember which acid is good for your skin type, you are sorted.

Dermatologist Trichologist, Dr. Vidushi Jain, Medical Head Dermalinks, elaborates, “A few acids can be grouped as Alphas hydroxy, Beta hydroxy, Polyhydroxy, Bionic acids, Hyaluronic acid, retinoic acid, and Ascorbic acid. The most commonly used AHAs are glycolic acid ( derived from sugarcane) and lactic acid ( from lactose in milk ). Cleopatra is believed to have bathed in lactic acid as a part of her beauty rituals, that is where we can trace back the origin of these acids.”

She further adds, “They are available in formulations like face washes, toners, serums, even creams, peel pads, and professional chemical peel solutions.”

And as Dr Rashmi Sharma, senior consultant, dermatology, Rosewalk Hospital, says, “For acne prone skin the best acids would be azelaic acid, salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid and mandelic acid. For mature skin, it’s glycolic acid, lactic acid , ascorbic acid and ferulic acid.”

As we become more warm to the subject, it’s very important to know the end points of each product, after all it’s your own facial skin. How much frosting, redness, and burning sensation is normal, and for how long it should last, as well as what to use to help the skin heal will help you get the best results.

Dr. Arika Bansal, MBBS, Gold Medalist MD, AIIMS, New Delhi, Diplomate of ABHRS (USA), Co-Founder, Eugenix Hair Sciences, says, “Most of the formulations that harness acids are designed to be used daily, but it’s always sensible to build up usage slowly if you are new. Start using them once a week after cleansing and before bed, building up to daily use at night and finally daily use morning and evening. Apply acid that suits you the best by soaking a cotton pad in the solution and sweeping it across the skin, avoid the sensitive eye area.”

Bid adieu to skin woes with acids

Magic potions

1. Glycolic Acid

An Alpha hydroxy acid is obtained from sugarcane. “This is the most popular acid for all skin types. Its benefits as an exfoliant are numerous. It helps in reduction in fine lines, increase of inner skin thickness, reducing pigment spots and blemishes,” says Dr Chytra V Anand, Celebrity Dermatologist and Chief Formulator of Skin Q. She adds,” It helps with acne control and long term skin tone and texture maintenance.”

2. Ascorbic Acid

Commonly known as Vitamin C and needs to be stored away from sunlight and in a cool place. Dr Sirisha adds, “Vitamin C helps improve the skin appearance and gives a healthy glow to the skin. Long term use has anti-ageing benefits too. Also, when this is used during the day, care should be taken to apply a layer of sunscreen on the Vitamin C serum to prevent oxidation of the Vitamin C.”

3. Salicylic Acid

A Beta Hydroxy acid with an affinity for oil. “It is made from wintergreen trees and is commonly used for oily plus combination skin, oil control, acne-prone skin, whiteheads and blackheads and blemishes. It is known to help reduce breakouts and is popular over the counter acid in acne skincare,” says Dr Anand.

4. Lactic Acid

Traditional Indian skincare has always included milk as a cleanser and curd in skin packs. “Lactic acid works as a mild exfoliator and can help improve the appearance of the skin. It is milder than glycolic acid and often leaves the skin looking hydrated as well,” says Dr Sirisha Singh.

5. Hyaluronic Acid

A deeply hydrating acid that helps give the skin a well hydrated luscious look. It penetrates into the deeper layers of the skin and helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the skin.