Glass skin, slugging or skin cycling? Surgeon Dr Ashok Patel reveals which skincare trends actually work for Indian skin

Social media loves skincare trends, but are they right for Indians? Aesthetic surgeon Dr Ashok Patel separates evidence-backed routines from online hype.

Social media has made skincare trends more accessible than ever, with routines like glass skin, skin cycling and slugging dominating beauty conversations. While many of these trends originated abroad, particularly in South Korea and the US, not all of them are designed with Indian skin in mind.

Explaining what works and what doesn't, Dr Ashok Patel, Aesthetic Surgeon and Founder, Brilliance Cosmocare, shares with HT Lifestyle his take on the most talked-about skincare trends.

Glass skin: Worth following with a caveat

"Glass skin has its roots in South Korea, all luminous, poreless-looking perfection. Skin cycling caught on an ocean away, in the US, as the internet's answer to overdoing actives. Both look wonderful on a camera roll, but neither trend was really built with Indian skin in mind, and how they actually hold up here is still an open question," says Dr Patel.

He explains that the concept behind glass skin is rooted in hydration and maintaining a healthy skin barrier. "The 'glass' look isn't from a single miracle serum. It's the visible result of skin that isn't inflamed, isn't dehydrated, and isn't being over-exfoliated into submission."

However, he cautions against chasing the trend through complicated multi-step routines. "Glass skin is closer to a byproduct of restraint than of accumulation. Fewer products, applied consistently, tend to get people there faster than a shelf full of them."

Skin cycling: Worth following

Dr Patel believes skin cycling is one of the few viral skincare trends that genuinely aligns with dermatological advice. "Skin cycling is all about alternating nights of active ingredients, like retinoids or exfoliating acids, with nights of pure recovery. It lets skin repair itself between actives instead of being hit every single night."

That said, he notes that people shouldn't follow rigid schedules if their skin needs something different. “The schedule is a starting point, not a rulebook.”

Skin cycling rejuvinates your skin because of recovery time. (Shutterstock)

Slugging: Worth following, but only for some

Slugging, applying an occlusive layer over skincare to seal in moisture overnight, can be beneficial, but only for certain skin types. "It works well for genuinely dry or barrier-compromised skin. It works considerably less well for anyone prone to congestion or breakouts."

He stresses that trends should always be matched to an individual's skin type rather than copied from social media.

Face icing and instant tightening facials: Not worth following

Dr Patel says these trends often promise more than they can deliver. "Ice doesn't shrink pores, and neither do most of the tools sold to tighten skin in sixty seconds. Temporary de-puffing, yes. Any lasting structural change, no."

According to him, any skincare trend promising dramatic results within minutes deserves healthy scepticism.

Actives stacking: Skip the 'more is more' approach

Layering multiple potent ingredients into one routine may seem effective online, but it often does more harm than good. "Dermatologists see the fallout from this constantly: barriers that take weeks to recover, redness that gets mistaken for purging, and skin that becomes more reactive over time rather than less,” he says.

His advice is simple: “Good skincare is additive in results, not in product count.”

Overusing skincare products can negatively impact your skin and worsen pigmentation. (Pexel)

Barrier-first skincare: Worth following

One trend Dr Patel wholeheartedly supports is the growing focus on protecting and repairing the skin barrier. "Ceramides, ectoin and ingredients that quietly repair rather than exfoliate represent a genuine correction after years of overly aggressive routines." He believes this shift encourages healthier skin instead of unnecessary irritation.

Trying new treatments before a big event? Avoid it

Experimenting with new skincare just days before an important occasion can easily backfire. "Skin doesn't respond meaningfully to anything in seventy-two hours, except for more irritation if the product is unfamiliar."

Instead, he recommends giving any new product or treatment several weeks before expecting visible results.

How to tell if a skincare trend is actually worth trying

According to Dr Patel, the best skincare trends share common characteristics. "The trends worth following tend to be patient rather than instant, they respect the skin barrier instead of stripping it, and they hold up even when you strip away the marketing language."

He adds that if a trend sounds too good to be true, it probably is. "If a trend can survive someone actually explaining the biology behind it and still make sense, it's probably worth trying. If the explanation falls apart the moment you ask, 'But why does this work?' it's probably not."

Dr Patel concludes by reminding people that no viral trend can replace personalised medical advice. "When in doubt, the safest filter is still the oldest one: ask before you apply. A dermatologist who's actually looked at your skin will tell you in under a minute whether a trend suits you or is about to undo six months of good habits."

Dr Ashok Patel is an aesthetic surgeon, cosmetologist, and healthcare entrepreneur with a decade of experience in skin and hair transformation. Holding an MBBS, MS (General Surgery), and a Fellowship in Medical Cosmetology (ILAMED), he specialises in hair restoration, facial aesthetics, pigmentation management, preventive skin health, and healthy ageing.

Note to readers: This article is for informational purposes only and not a substitute for professional medical advice. Always seek the advice of your doctor with any questions about a medical condition.