Disappering speck of nature

Our concrete ambitions are destroying what was once a wetland bird haven

Until the Jawaharlal NehruPort Trust was establishedhere to decongest theMumbai Port, Uran was aquaint little fishing village, known tothe avid birdwatchers of Mumbai asa birding hotspot. And to thoseinterested in history, it was knownas the naval base of that fishermanturned-master naval strategist ofShivaji, Kanhoji Angre. The one whoheld sway over every single fort onthe coast of Konkan, including a fewfabulous forts built in the middle ofthe Arabian Sea.

Today, Uran is on the verge of asea-change. From a mere fishing village,it's about to be converted into aconcrete jungle. Frenetic activity isgoing on to make it an S.E.Z, asobriquet that ill fits it unless itmeans Special Ecological Zone.

With the Sewri-Nhava Sheva SeaLink looming ominously on the horizon,the destruction of Uran is nearcomplete. In a matter of weeks, anarray of mountains between Panveland Uran has made way for monstrouscontainer yards. Their voraciousappetite unsatiated, giganticearth-moving equipment continue tognaw at the insides of the mountains.And dumpers stand in endlessqueues, waiting to transport thedebris, and dump it into the home ofover a 100 species of wetland birds.

Pink stop
A little while ago, as the tide rosesteadily, thousands of flamingos thatcome to the mangroves betweenSewri and Mahul used to take offinto the skies forming gigantic pinkclouds, and land in the inviting wetlandsof Uran. Imagine the traumathey must have gone through whenthey looked down from the skies anddiscovered to their dismay thatwhat was once their homeland hasbeen conquered by the greed ofman. There is a tiny bit of this exoticwetland that still remains intact. Ahandful of migratory birds foragehere for food, blissfully unaware ofthe happenings around them.

But the dumpers in the distance filled with what was once a mountain are a grim reminder that thistoo will disappear, leaving no tracewhatsoever of what was once a paradisefor birds. To be lost, forever.

Old fishing village
Along the white sands of the beachesof Uran, you can still see all thetypical activities of a fishing village,especially when a boat arrives withits catch of seafood. You can also seereally large boats being built there,in continuation of a tradition perfectedover 300 nautical years. Afterthat, you could drive further downthe coast to see history frozen in theruins of the Karanja Fort.

After exploring the remnants ofUran, you could head off on a jungletrail towards Karjat and continuethrough the forests, till you reachNeral in the foothills of Matheran.

The lotus pond with lotuses in fullbloom, and beautiful birds calledbronze-winged jacanas walking gingerlyon those delicate lotus leaves,is a sight worth going miles to see.And of course, the sights and soundsof other forest birds, scrublandearth for preys, make it a trulyrefreshing experience.

Fragile environment
When you get back to base camp inUran, recharged, take a second lookat the wanton destruction aroundyou, and pose this question to yourself:What are we going to pass on toour next generation, from whom wehave borrowed this fragile earth?

Habitats where the miracles ofnature surprise you every livingmoment, or a vast wasteland ofmemories turned brown?

Uran. See it this weekend. Thenext one may be too late.

Gangadharan is a wildlife writerand photographer. He heads therecently-launched Junglelens, anNGO working for the conservation ofnature and wildlife.

HT Image